Arc'teryx Alpha SV Jacket

I bought a Medium. My dimensions are 5'8", 170lb, 40" chest.

All the positive reviews for the Arc'teryx Alpha SV are completely true. From my experience, what distinguishes this from other hard shells is the face fabric and also the fit. However, no one so far has mentioned that there is also a flaw in the zipper design.

The face fabric is superb. Since Arc'teryx designs and manufactures their own face fabrics, the durability and uniqueness of their face fabric is second to none. When it comes to face fabrics, they are the king of hard shells...bar none. The weaving is so tight and the denier of the threads make the fabric so burly. Due to the density of the threads, it almost looks like the fabric is not woven, but is like a laminate floor. I haven't seen another jacket out there with a face fabric that is so cool and unique.

The fit and articulation of this jacket makes it feel like you've got no shell on at all. There is freedom of movement in ALL directions, whereas other jackets out there restrict you and can feel the fabric trying to move with you. The length of this jacket for me was great. It's also very roomy but does not at all appear to be baggy.

With all the positive things said, there is a negative point of this jacket. I've already mentioned this before in a previous post/question. The chin guard material (on the left collar) is puffy. As such, that puffy material actually can overlap the main zipper and cause the zipper to get stuck. This is REALLY annoying particularly when you don't have two hands to fix the problem. Now this doesn't happen ALL the time, but quite frequently if you zip it up at a certain angle.Someone else on Moosejaw also mentioned this problem (http://www.moosejaw.com/outdoors/products/ArcteryxAlphaSVJacketFall2009-Mens.html)

EDIT: It turns out that this is a known issue from the manufacturer. They had production issues with the old Titanium color. It seems that BC's batch of Titaniums are from this production run.

I don't know if this was just the batch of jackets that BC carries or if it is a design issue. I got 2 other jackets from BC and they exhibited the same problem. I went to my local store and NONE of their jackets had that issue. The material was not as puffy as BC's jackets.

In any case, I will take off 1 star from this jacket because this is such a fundamental and functional problem. Whether or not this is Arc'teryx or BC's problem, I'm just warning you about this.

Other than this, this is definitely the best jackets for winter use compared to other ones I have reviews. (You can check out my postings).

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I have only used my Alpha SV for a couple of week, but am already falling in love with the jacket. A first glance might have you think that that there are few differences, if any, with the cheaper Arc'teryx models, or other comparable brands.
The problem when buying hard shells is that it's not the bells and whistles that separate good ones from bad- all have 3-layer GoreTex fabric, a hood, similar zippers, etc. No the big difference is in details and trade-offs. How well does the hood work in high winds and sleet? Does the pockets make any sense with a backpack? with a harness? Can you reach and adjust the pit zippers? Such details are very hard to assess in the store but makes a significant difference on the mountain.
With Alpha SV, it feels like Arc'teryx have found a great tradeoff between simplicity and functionality. The hood is work great in high winds. The cut fits really well, both with a thick fleece under, and with only base layer. The pockets could be a bit bigger perhaps- you can put shell gloves there but not big mittens. This jacket should also mainly be used with Bib's if you are going for the winter mountain, while it's a bit on the short side.
Most details that makes a shell a great shell are hard to describe. It's more like you put it on and you feel like you have come home. That's how the Alpha is.

Arcteryx has a slavishly devoted flock that allows them to charge ridiculous prices for some of their pieces... and I myself am vulnerable. I bought a used one and am happy with the deal, but no way for list price. I have other jackets by Mountain Hardware, Montbell, and Marmot, and there is no way that this is 2-3 times better than those (whereas the price is 2-3x more).

I have the XCR model (made in Canada). The differences with the new pro-shells are: laminated rather than stitched seams, slightly more vertical front pockets, got rid of the bulky plastic tabs attached to zipper cords to save weight. The whole breathability of Gore-Tex like fabrics is overrated. Yes they do breath more, but if you really want to have a big effect on breathability, partially unzip the jacket and open the pit zips! The thickness of the fabric is a little more durable than other Arcteryx models for durability.

Arcterxy looks fashionable for gear, which is nice. The front pockets are nice and tend to work better when wearing a pack than side pockets. But for the cost of replacing this, I have to think twice about glissading in it. Also, sincle late 2007, Arcteryx has moved most of their production to China. The MBAs have figured a way to increase profits without dropping the price. Don't even try to explain it as offsetting the high price of gas!

Alright, I don't own a brand new model; in fact, I have had my Alpha SV since 1999. It has been up peaks in Nepal three times, shipwrecked on an island in the Strait of Magellen in Patagonia, to Yosemite, Zion, Rainer, Hood, and all over the United States, climbing and hiking and getting abused. It has at least 400 ski days on it and has been stuffed and un-stuffed an incalculable number of times. The zippers are still fine and functional. All of the moving parts are fine and functional. The DWR finish has been touched up about once a year with that washing machine stuff that is so expensive, but it is still super waterproof. I have never owned a piece of clothing that was so tightly constructed - it is what converted me to Arcteryx, and what keeps me coming back. It is pricey, but I bought it nine years ago! If I had gone with a lesser brand I might have had to replace it twice by now. Do yourself a favor...work an extra shift or two, sell some plasma, forgo buying that boxed set of Madonna CDs -- buy this jacket!

The Alpha SV is a GREAT jacket but Arcteryx is adding to its line this fall 2008 a new Gamma SV softshell. This jacket has a hood built in on its Polartec body as well as Schoeller arm panels. Also look for the Venta SV, also a hoodie, this one is made with GoreTex Windstopper and is GoreTex waterproofed. This is Arcteryx's entry into the market. It feels like a softshell, functions like a hardshell. Arcteryx also has two more, the Kappa SV and the ultimate jacket- the $700 Fission SL. The Kappa is a windstopper with primaloft sport insulation while the Fission is a full GoreTex shell melded with Arcteryx's proprietary Thermatech monofilament insulation. Each fiber on the hollow Thermatech filament is coated with DWR to maximize life and loft from the product. I have great confidence in this site to obtain these items; therefore, I am going to put off Alpha SV and wait for the Fall 2008 line. The Alpha SV will remain a classic so if and when it goes on "sale" I will definitely grab one - In the meanwhile, GO FOR IT!!!!

Unless you're being deployed to Afghanistan, this jacket is all the bomb proof you'll ever need. By far the burliest shell I have ever seen. Excellent breathability (and by mountaineer's standards I'm a fatty who sweats way too much). It's cut pretty big so you can definitely layer underneath it. I'm 6 foot, 215 pounds and wear the XL comfortably over all my layers.

The hood is excellent with a helmet, but a little awkward without one... the reality is that if you need this jacket, you generally need your brain bucket too, so it's not a big deal.

It would be nice if it packed down a little smaller, but it's not like it's overly bulky.

This thing has been to the top of a few 14ers in Colorado with me and it held up it's end of the bargain. An awesome feature for climbing is the foam in the hem to stop it from riding up under your harness.

9 years ago I was a climbing bum working in a retail shop. I needed a new shell. I scrimped and saved and finally was ale to shell out for the Alpha SV. I have spend no less than 300 - 600 days in it. I work outside and foul weather follows me. Today this jacket is just as tough as the day it arrived. The zippers are perfect, the gore-tex breaths great (the new model works even better as it has a newer type of gore-tex), the bungies that cinch the hood and waist are also perfect. Knowing all of the abuse I have put this coat through I can not beleive how good it looks and functions. I expect it will last another 9 years and then if it needs replacing I will gladly shell out for the new coat from the bird. It might be costly, but it will last you forever and the fit is amazing.

This jacket will be overkill for most, and was made for the most demanding of athletes and conditions. That does mean that it will easily deflect rain and almost anything nature or you can throw at it. It is heavier than the Alpha LT and Beta LT, so question how much you will abuse it. The new LT fabric will be fine for 99.9% of people. Rest assured, this jacket will look new for nigh upon a decade of use, due to the quality of the fabric and construction. When looking to buy, ask yourself if you want to be able to stow the hood, if you use your pockets for your hands (then don't get this), and if you want the low back (for coverage) and high front (for a climbing harness). The Theta and Beta are decidedly more practical for most. But this jacket is like a WRX STi...not practical for most, but still decidedly badass.

I decided to go for the xcr (last year's version) of the Alpha SV just because the price was $300 (yes, $300) less. Beautiful jacket. I know there's some small differences (0ther than the obvious difference between gore xcr and gore pro), but they just weren't worth the difference in price to me. I tried on both and if anyone is wondering, the older version of this jacket does fit slightly larger. I find that the cut is such that you could fit a down jacket/vest under no problem, but you wouldn't feel awkward when wearing one over top either. The cut comes in at the waist and leaves a bit more room across the chest, shoulders and arms. Great jacket - completely waterproof and warm under strong winds. I will be taking this to the Himalayas this fall and will write an updated review at that time. Love the look, love the features though.