The Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay. The best, most versatile belay device is now lighter with machined windows through the body.
A versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body. Black Diamond also enlarged the auto-block release hole to accept a small carabiner. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rappelling, and the device's guide mode lets you belay one or two seconding climbers off an anchor.
How do you make the most popular belay device in the world even better? You give it an extra loop that lets you belay your second directly from the anchor, with auto-locking capability, and then you machine out every last gram of unneeded material and call it the Black Diamond ATC Guide. Loved by trad climbers, ice climbers, and alpinists alike, this belay device lets you belay two following climbers while you tie your shoes and eat a sandwich, without any risk to anyone's life. Get yourself an ATC Guide, and go climb something that gets you a few pitches off the ground. By the time you're back at the car, you'll wonder how you ever got by without it.
Multiple friction modes for belay and rappel$ Machined windows through device for weight savings$ Auto-block release hole enlarged to accept small carabiners$Durable cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up between ropes$Guide mode works with one or two climbers ascending and descending$Dependable and smooth operation in all conditions,handling ropes from 7.7 to 11 mm
|Belay Device Type:||Manual Catch|
|Best Use:||Multi-Pitch Routes, Rappelling, Sport Climbing|
|Rope Capacity:||7.7 - 11 mm|
|Weight:||88 g (3.1 oz)|
|Black Diamond ATC Guide Descender||$27.95|
|Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device||$22.49 - $29.95|
|Black Diamond ATC||$16.95|
The auto locking feature is so awesome. it is a life saver on multi pitches, to know that your follower is secure, allows you piece of mind to take a photo, get ready for the next pitch, eat a snack and safely belay him/her up to you.
Auto locking can be hard to give slack with after it is loaded, which is something that should be thought about before setting it up. If there is potential that the pitch is steep and your follower will need a combination of slack given and taken often than it will be tough. You can clip a beaner to the small hole on the device to give you leverage but it is a little awkward.
This being said it is the best thing to happen to belay devices and is an amazing feature.
My ATC Guide does a great job with my Sterling Evo Veloicty 9.8 rope. The ability to use high or low friction modes depending on the climber/situation is a big value add for me. The auto-belay function works great! Belaying my second from above is very easy and you can focus on rope/anchor management. It is a little bit awkward trying to lower in auto-belay mode from above. Had to put a lot of effort/power into releasing, and I definitely recommend backing up with a muenter hitch. Without the muenter I wouldn't have had any control over the lowering speed (either suspended or free fall). I'm filing that under personal technique rather than device functionality.
As easy to use as the Black Diamond ATC (standard tube-style device) and better than a GriGri for belaying up a second.
It's rare that one piece of equipment is universally useful to new climbers and advanced ones. This one is. You could use it on your first day learning to climb in the gym, or on a long day at Eldo. I love mine so much I bought one for my girlfriend for Valentines (seriously).
When in guide mode, the ATC Guide is amazing - offering an auto-locking back-up when you're bringing up a second.
Pros: Light, super-simple design, multi-functional (great for rappelling, belaying on TR, or belaying up a 2nd from an anchor).
This is the end all be all ATC in my opinion. I does it all. I have rapped on a single 8.2mm rope and it grabbed it no problem, and I have belayed with a 10.5mm rope and it still feeds no problem. The auto block feature is the only way to belay a second, and you can even turn it into a rudimentary ascender. I've seen it used as a brake in a slack line haul system. It's durability can't be beat. I have had Petzl versions that are a tad lighter but las half as long.
A highly versatile, well thought out, reasonably priced belay device. Whether you're using it as a regular ATC, or mounting it to the anchor and belaying from above in Guide-mode, this is another example of a reasonably-priced-yet-thoroughly-well-designed product from Black Diamond. If you are belaying from above, make sure you have a small sling or length of cord to enable you to give slack. Black Diamond has a video explaining how to give slack or lower in that circumstance. If you need a belay device, look no further than right here!
Ever wonder why the only belay devices you see at the crag are the BD ATC Guide and the Petzl Grigri? There's a reason for that--this belay device is one of the most versatile, all-around belay devices on the market. It does what it should; catches big falls, rappels extremely well, and can be used in guide mode to easily bring up a second on a multipitch climb.
Not much else to say about it.
Pros: extremely versatile, does everything you need it to exceptionally well.
I actually have the BD Guide and Reverso 4. BD Guide is much more robust and will last longer then the Reverso 4. But the Reverso 4 is much lighter and more comfortable to use when handling it in different modes. I would avoid using 10mm + ropes with the Reverso 4, mostly if you end up soaking your rope (mountaineering). Those are the pros and cons, I have both for different uses and I love em ;)
haven't used a reverso yet so i can't compair, but this atc guide does everything i want. simple light, really great when you're climbing in a 3 person team and want to bring up followers at the same time. seems to be wearing faster than my old atc, but i think that more due to the conditions/ropes we've been climbing with. make sure you or your leader have one, auto locking is a must!
The ATC is an industry standard and (in my opinion) is the best way for a new climber to learn to belay safely and the Guide is an absolute must for multipitch climbing. I prefer the guide over the Reverso because it aligns so that the rope comes straight out from the rock instead of off to one side.