Black Diamond ATC-XP

Love it - so much more holding power then a standard type belay device. I especially like it when there is a weight difference between belayer and climber. I notice when ice climbing and if the rope gets a little frozen, it does make for a little bit more of a jerky ride, but even with this, it is confidence instilling that not only will you catch a fall with your bulky gloves, but you will be caught as well. The new standard - from the gym to the crag.

And when you want less friction - turn it around. Ladies and Gents - we have a winner. The guide model is cool as well if you have a need - this is a good supplement and is a few bucks cheaper for your backup if you have a need for carrying 2 devices - errgh - twisted ropes, munter hitch / carabiner make-do belay device...

At first I thought the teeth might just a gimmick to charge a little more for a fancy-looking ATC, but I thought I'd try it out. My climbing partners have about 60 lbs on me (I'm 5'3"/120) and I thought something that would increase the friction when I lock-off would be great. This ATC really delivered! Of course other Black Diamond ATCs don't slip when you lock-off correctly, but this one holds just as much without having to try as hard to maintain a steep angle, which can be tiring if you're using it all day. Better to save your energy for the climb. And for the times I belay someone more than my size I just flip it and use the regular friction side.

We all know the ATC. We probably all have one or have owned one at some point. How can BD possibly improve on such a classic, clean, simple, lightweight and proven design? They add teeth. I was skeptical about the ATC-XP at first, but I am a believer now. It's basically the same trusted feel of the regular ATC but when you want to use them, the teeth are a worthy feature. Skinny double rope rappels won't cause your palms to heat up like a burner plate anymore. And it's still lightweight, compact, and of course bombproof. Pick one up.

I purchased the XP because for some reason i just cant seem to get enough control with the ATC. What i really like about the XP is that if you have 2 climbers who like different styles of belay devices, each climber can use whatever side of the XP that they like, wether its the friction side or the smooth side. I prefer the friction side that seems to give you so much more control and piece of mind when belaying. Excellent product and design. Recommended for belayers who prefer maximum friction... that sounds dirty.

The Black Diamond ATC-XP is far better than most standard ATC’s. The Black Diamond ATC-XP gives you the option to use the grooved high-friction side for belaying with exceptional holding power, or you can flip the ATC-XP over and use the low-friction side for smoother and faster roping. The thick walls and smooth curves are rope friendly, and the thick rope bearing radii reduce rope wear. The Black Diamond ATC-XP is my number one recommended belaying device, especially do to the quality vs price ratio being extremely in your favor.

The ATC XP is just plain awesome. There's not much more to say than that. Thread it in high friction mode if your friends plan on hanging out on the wall for a while to give your hands and arms a break. If they're just running some quick routes and you're not going to have to hold anyone up for an hour you can use it just like a regular ATC. It doesn't get much simpler or more effective than that.

I always feel good climbing above one of these. Catching is easy with it and makes soft catches easy. I would use this device over the GriGri any day, unless you can't see the climber or it is a super long pitch that is longer than your attention span.

The device does heat up quite a bit after a long rappel, not sure if this has any real damaging effects on a rope..?

The XP is a great device, the only problem that I have had is there being too much friction through using the teeth. This does not occur all the time but when you first use the extra friction side you will immediately notice a difference versus a normal ATC. Rapelling is very safe and secure. Great device, and I have been happy with it. It belays and rappels well with all rope diameters.

I use a 10.3mm rope for rock climbing and the ATC-XP works great with it. The high friction side is great for belay, however not for rappel; it's a little bit too much friction and sometimes you have to feed the rope when you're beginning the descent at the top of the route. But that's why this ATC has a low friction side and it performs really good too. Definitely recommended.

The Black Diamond ATC-XP is easily my favorite ATC. The high friction mode helps a lot especially when belaying someone who weighs more than you. I also love it for its versatility in rappelling. The high friction mode gives you security on those long rappells but filp it around and have fun soaring down those others with a little more speed. It is the best ATC for the all around climber/canyoneer.