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Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay

Climbing > Belay & AscendRated: ***** by 27 reviews.

Appalachain Outdoors

Black Diamond ATC-XP is a true variable-friction belay and rappel device with wicked holding power. With the ATC-XP a climber can control how much friction they want while belaying or rapping, which in turn means greater control with multiple rope diameters. Ice climbing with an 8.1mm rope? Use the ATC-XP in high friction mode, pulling the rope over its contoured teeth. Abseiling with a fuzzy 11mm down a granite slab? Use the device in regular friction mode. An extended central web keeps biners and ropes properly oriented and reduces kinking. An added bonus in the thick rope-bearing radii of the ATC-XP which means ropes wear less and last longer. Return Policy: Climbing equipment sales are final. In order to guarantee the life saving integrity of the climbing gear we sell -- theadventuresource.com cannot accept returns on any life safety climbing or mountaineering equipment.

REI

Give yourself ultimate control over any rappel or belay with this truly variable friction device.

  • Variable friction design gives greater control over a multiple of rope diameters
  • Use HFM (high friction mode) for thin ropes, wet conditions or rapping with a heavy haul bag
  • Use LFM (low friction mode) when rapping with a fuzzy 11mm rope or speed rapping in your camo
  • Die-cast 380 aluminum is 44% heavier and 20% harder than the original ATC for even more durability
  • Versatile double-slot design allows you to feed single or double ropes smoothly, yet hold falls with ease: won't kink the rope

USOutdoor.com

A true variable-friction device, the ATC-XP maintains the silky-smooth feeding of the ATC but ups the braking power. For belaying and rappelling with 7.7-11 mm ropes, it’s designed with a smooth, low-friction side and a high-friction side with v-shaped grooves for three times more friction. An extended central web keeps biners and ropes properly oriented and helps reduce kinking.

Features:

  • Geometric, fluid design reduces rope kinking
  • High friction mode offers 3 times greater hold and stopping power
  • Super versatile for all styles of climbing with ropes 7.7mm to 11mm

This description was also provided by: Altrec


O2GearShop.com (Spring 2009)

Offering one third more holding power than the original ATC, the Black Diamond ATC XP is variable-friction device that retains the ATC's trademark smoothness while providing exceptional catching prowess.

Features:

  • Belay and rappel with cleated grooves that provide enhanced control and unmatched precision with varied rope diameters
  • Colors vary
  • Your rope is less prone to kinking thanks to an extended central web that maintains proper rope orientation, while an increased rope radius adds to durability

This description was also provided by: Mountain Gear


Al's Sports

A true variable-friction device, the Black Diamond ATC-XP maintains the silky-smooth feeding of the ATC but ups the braking power. For belaying and rappelling with 7.7-11 millimeter ropes, it’s designed with a smooth low friction side and a high friction side with v-shaped grooves for three times more friction. An extended central web keeps biners and ropes properly oriented and reduces rope kinking.

Features:

  • Style number BD20050 
  • WEIGHT: 89 G (3.1 OZ)

Eastern Mountain Sports (EMS)

An all-around belay device with variable friction setting.

Features:

  • Extended control web reduces kinking and damage to rope
  • High function made for greater control and holding power
  • High-force multiplier means less effort to break falls and rappels
  • Regular friction made for normal climbing and rappelling situations
Fits rope sizes:8mm - 11mm, single/double
Handles ropes:7.7 - 11 mm
Suitable for belaying:Yes
Suitable for rappelling:Yes
Weight:3 ounces

View other products from Black Diamond classified in Climbing > Belay & Ascend.

View all products from Black Diamond.
View other products classified in Climbing > Belay & Ascend.

Sometimes, we can't be sure that the product is the same across the stores that offer its, so you may find the same product listed more then once on GearBuyer.com, we these list highly similar products below.

Black Diamond ATC Belay DeviceBlack Diamond ATC Belay Device$15.12 - $18.95
Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay/RappelBlack Diamond ATC-XP Belay/Rappel$23.95
Black Diamond ATC-XPBlack Diamond ATC-XP$23.95
Black Diamond ATC-Guide BelayBlack Diamond ATC-Guide Belay$27.95
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Legend

  •     - O2GearShop.com (Spring 2009)
  •     - Appalachain Outdoors
  •     - USOutdoor.com
  •     - Eastern Mountain Sports (EMS)
  •     - Al's Sports
  •     - REI
  •     - Altrec
  •     - Mountain Gear

Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Reviews Summary:

RatingNumber
of Reviews
*****16
****10
***1
**0
*0
To see how this product compares to others view Belay & Ascend Device Reviews.

Positive Reviews:

Pure Stopping Power!

Rating:*****
I recently purchased this product as a Christmas gift for my girlfriend, who weighs in at only a hundred pounds, while I am just shy of two hundred. Being small, she has had trouble with stopping heavy falls from big guys like me when using traditional ATC's, but with the ATC-XP she says that it is easy to stop me from falling and that it takes a great deal of strain off of her arms and hands. A great product at a great price. :)
Revan Cliff-Hanger at Eastern Mountain Sports (EMS) on 01/10/2009

Tried and true- with a twist

Rating:*****
Great belay device. You can't get much simpler than the ATC, and this is the same thing just with some added grooves that let you switch to a high friction mode when belaying. The high friction mode comes in handy on occasion, such as when using small diameter rope or if ice climbing on cold/frozen rope. While it is heavier than the regular ATC, the weight is hardly noticeable, and I like it better because of the added versatility.
switch at REI on 10/21/2007

way better than the regular ATC

Rating:****
I replaced my regular ATC after fearing for my life on a long rap with a heavy pack while canyoneering. The teeth/goove allow me more confidence/control. Also the non-teethed groove can be used with the break hand if a quicker rap or feed belay is desired. Down side: the plastic covered cable can still get caught between the 'biner and the rope and melt the plastic. Never the less, I bought an extra one for my wife!
Guycan at REI on 09/22/2007

Good but a little grabby

Rating:*****
Great device, undoubtedly an improvement on the original ATC. The device makes a ton of friction. You could literally hold a short fall with two fingers (although I would highly discourage it). My only complaint is that when lowering the device is a little grabby and can make for a bumpy ride down. This is remedied by using the low friction side, but if you do that you might as well get the old ATC.
Max1290 at REI on 08/24/2008

Has it's place, but not for everyday use

Rating:****
This is an incredibly handy little tool but it's not going to replace my regular ATC anytime soon. Unless you know you will be needing the extra friction, there's not much point in carrying around the extra weight and having to think about which way you are threading the ATC. Also the high friction setting makes smooth lowers and rappels difficult. But again, for beginners or belaying heavier climbers this is really useful.
danep at REI on 02/11/2008

Gold Standard of Belay Devices

Rating:****
The only things better are the BD ATC-Guide and the reverso (I've never used the reverso, but seen them used, and they're practically the same as the ATC-Guide). The ATC-XP works well, is light, and has no moving parts to break. I've had mine for years and can't wait for it to break so I can get an ATC-Guide. Do they break? I'll probably have to lose it/drop it somehow...
MarkSDenver at REI on 09/21/2007

Best basic belay device available.

Rating:****
Doesn't feed *quite* as smoothly as a regular ATC, which can make it a tiny bit frustrating for super fast climbers on too-easy routes. But it's SO much better for belaying heavy climbers, especially if they hangdog a lot and you don't want to carry (or can't afford, or disagree with on a philosophical level...) a Gri-gri.
ZoSwimBikeRunClimb at Mountain Gear on 08/08/2007

Extremly easy to use

Rating:*****
Extremly easy to use. this is one of the most eficent belay devices I have ever come across. Stoping a falling climber is nearly efortless and the curved side reduces strain on your expencive ropes. would rercremend to anyone. Well worth its relitivly reasonable price
Climber515c at Eastern Mountain Sports (EMS) on 07/09/2007

Great device for small diameter ropes

Rating:****
This is a great device. Simple to use (with the right knowledge). I got it for my smaller diameter ropes (8 - 9.7 mm) and it holds well.

Raps well with small diameter ropes but not very fast.
missionhkr at REI on 10/01/2008

Best of the ATC class belay devices

Rating:*****
I've used the BD XP belay device for a couple of years now and find it the best of the ATC class. It grabs the best and produces less rope stress while dissipating energy efficiently. Way to go BD.
Jim from Glacier at Mountain Gear on 02/08/2006

Neutral Reviews:

Easy To Use

Rating:***
i bought this device specifically for indoor use and outdoor climbs, mostly trad. It has worked well so far and I am about to put it to the test on a three pitch climb so we'll see!
Everestwannabe at REI on 09/22/2007