Belay carabiners don’t always behave as you might want them to. There is potential for the biner to flip into a bad alignment and for cross loading to occur. With this in mind DMM came up with a special clip that once locked in position prevents cross loading occurring by holding the biner and belay device in the correct alignment. There is another advantage too: the clip can only be locked if the Screwgate has been properly closed first. DMM has given the Belay Master 2 Screw Gate Carabiner a Taper Lock nose, a special flared profile on the nose of the biner which significantly increases the side loading strength of the gate. The belay Master 2 is also surprisingly light. So there you have it, one of the safest belay biners ever made and a fool proof set up that has proved very popular with climbing walls and outdoor centers.
|Carabiner Type:||Locking Biner|
|Country of Origin:||UK|
|Frame Shape:||Modified D|
|Gate Closed Strength:||25KN|
|Gate Open Strength:||8 kN|
|Gate Opening:||20 mm|
|Major Axis kN:||25 kN|
|Minor Axis Strength:||7KN|
|Minor Axis kN:||10 kN|
|Open Strength kN:||8 kN|
|Weight:||3.2 oz / 93 g|
|Dmm Belay Master||$19.99 - $20.95|
Ohh the internal debate - 4 stars or 5 stars???? Let me make it clear I absolutely love this biner. I love the fact that you cannot cross load it, I love the fact that the plastic clip won't shut unless the screwgate is done up, I love its simplicity and I love the smoothest action you can find on any screwgate commercially made. (DMM do make amazing screwgates - FACT!!)
So why 4 stars? The only reason I gave it four stars is because the plastic clip can be detached from the biner and lost. Over the last three or so years that I've been using mine only once has the plastic clip been twisted off the biner when I had it attached to one of my gear loops (maybe I should learn to always clip it fully closed but when I'm not belaying I sometimes leave it simply closed on a gear loop). Luckily, at the time it fell, not only did I notice it had been knocked off but also it fell somewhere where I could pick it up and re-attach it, ie it didn't fall 200feet down a rock face. I have also heard about one guy who had his plastic clip nicked in Camp 4 - not good! I guess the reason DMM manufacture it like this is so that you can take the clip off and use it like a normal biner but I never need that, I have a bunch of Shadows for that. Also when you compare it to a Girdlock, you cant take the metal piece off that - there's no 'semi' dual use for that biner, so I would say you could make the plastic clip a more permanent feature.
Like I said though - this is an awesome biner and I wouldn't trade mine in for any other (Gridlock or anything). I'm currently thinking about getting one (two?) more to use with a Silent Partner.
I have used this for a couple months now and it is a great biner. Keeps you from side-loading and makes you double-check that you're locked in. A no-brainer, especially for newer climbers who don't have the muscle memory down. Also, the biner seems to hold up well to fast belays/rappels. It should last a while.