Small flared placements can be dealt with very effectively; providing of course you’ve got some DMM Peenuts on your rack. These offset and tapered nuts are worth their weight in gold on granite and slate. They allow a bigger area of surface contact than the smaller brass micro nuts. This means that the energy generated in a fall is spread out and the rock is less likely to break. If you climb on quarried rock a lot this type of nut really comes into its own. Nothing fits those flared peg scars like a set of Peenuts.
|Country of Origin:||UK|
|Material:||Steel & Aluminum|
|Weight:||.35 oz / 10 g|
|Dmm Peenuts Set||$49.95|
These are the most useful little-dudes I've ever had on my rack. I primarily climb Southern sandstone and they are indispensable on the classic run-out traditional face routes! They fit in the tiniest of placements and the slightly offset nature of the nut often allows them to get maximum contact in places where a traditional nut won't even pretend to go!
I recommend these little boogers to anyone!
These things are so light I almost always carry a set. Since they are aluminum they are more durable than brassies but have less bite. I have climbed primarily in Jtree with them and they are perfect when the going gets thin. I've taken falls on these guys and trust my life with them.
These things work wonders in LCC granite. I've whipped on the smallest size several times and it didn't even thing about pulling. They are somewhat specialized but you'll be amazed the places these things fit and the security the offer on an otherwise puckery run out.
These are pretty fantastic. Rated higher than similar sized BD nuts, and they flare both downward and to the side, as do many cracks. I carry 1-5 to supplement a BD set, but will probably pick up a few more in the future. Get some!
DMM brought back the offset nuts. A must in the southern desert sandstone flaring cracks and damn handy in the Canadian Rockies as well. Only set I carry now. Have no idea why I would need any others.
For pin scars and small flared cracks these are unbeatable. I still carry regular nuts and just suplement with these for areas with funky cracks and gear.
nice addition to my rack - can't wait to use them! They're made out of aluminum so they are not as soft as the copper