Torque nuts are DMM's solution to large passive protection.
As the name suggests, these cunningly sized and shaped nuts work well in standard placements but also have and efficient camming system. Just four sizes cover a very large size range. The colour-coded double dyneema sling is protected on the top by a large countersunk groove and works in a similar fashion to the slings on our cams. This unique refinement makes racking the units much easier and allows you to climb less encumbered.
|Country of Origin:||UK|
|Dmm Torque Nut Set 1-4||$67.50|
I love the extendable slings on these! At first I didn't think they were that great, because I racked all the hexes on one biner. Then I climbed Baboquivari Peak with them (several pitches of 5.6). I took only passive gear on the climb, and so I re-racked these to be each on their own biner, using BD neutrinos for color coding. Returning to my usual mix of cams and passive gear, I haven't "demoted" them back to a single biner yet. I use them way more when they're on their own, I can get right to the one I want, and usually I don't need to extend them beyond the sling. Fantastic.
At first I also didn't like the lack of intermediate sizes, but I kind of like how they match BD cam colors now. Makes it real easy to see which one I want from looking at the rock.
I've mostly placed these in basalt and find them to have a very positive camming action. They set solidly with a tug (not worried about the rope knocking them loose at all) and are definitely confidence inspiring. I haven't found any placements yet that have seemed a little too big for one, but a little too small for the next size up, so it looks like they nailed the overlap. They're totally loud, but hey, they're big hexes, whaddaya expect? The sling extends pretty easily and saves on draws (it can take a little longer for seconds to rerack them with the sling extended, but if that's a deal breaker for you just leave the sling doubled and use a draw). Another really cool feature: the sizes line up really closely with the equivalently colored Camalot C4's (.75-3). Gotta love standardized colors.
I bought these hexes because I loved the idea of DMM's webbing system. But unlike other hexes, these don't seem to want to stay put when you slide them up the sling so each hex hangs at a different height and they don't clank together like cowbells. It's probably because these slings are spectra and it's not a huge deal, but you definitely don't want to get these if you're into stealth climbing.
These cover a great size range, and cam like you wouldn't believe. I have used the #4 on every climb since I got them. The double length sling really does the trick when you need to prevent rope drag, there are just so many options. They cover the same spectrum as the #5-9 Rockcentrics with one less piece - a real weight savings!
I've been critical of hexes before I actually encountered them and saw how secure they are. My buddy countered a lot of my cam placements with his set of DMM hexes. They're not hard to place and cover a good range for the weight. I'll be picking up a set as soon as possible.
I like these a lot better than the typical wired hexes. They are easier to place and you need fewer of them because one torque nut covers a bigger size range. The extendable sling is pretty awesome as well!!
I bought the #4 a bout a month ago before a trip to Joshua Tree and it was nice having that extra piece of big pro to get me through the run outs.
I've used the torque nuts several times. They work great in the horizontal, but vertical cam placements are more harder to find because the change in sizes don't overlap well. Don't expect to be able to cam these in every vertical crack, even when they are uniform. The sales pitch is that there are only four sizes that cover the same ranges of other curved hexes with fewer pieces. That's bs. They need to add some sizes in between. Oh wait... you just want to hear about how great they are and why you should buy them. Sorry. They are fun to place and look cool though. I count on my tricams ten times more.
Well, they're the best hexes on the market, but the camming range could be better, and there could be more sizes. DMM tries to compare these to regular cams, but their range doesn't overlap very well, so they aren't nearly as functional. I would also like a size smaller than the green. I dunno, hexes can be useful, and these are the best, so you don't really have any other options, but I think DMM can do better.