|Material:||[head] 100% aluminum, [cable] 100% steel|
|Dmm Wallnuts||$9.45 - $10.95|
|Dmm Wallnuts Set #1-11||$104.95|
|Dmm Micro Wallnuts Set||$36.95|
|Dmm Wallnuts Set #1-6||$54.95|
I have set of these, and a set of BD nuts. Holding them side by side they are pretty much identical in size with the difference being the BD nuts are not as tall as the DMM. The BD's are stubbier. I prefer the DMM in the larger sizes (~7-10) because there is more of a sideways taper making a sideways placement much better. Keep in mind that placing small nuts sideways is usually not recommended but placing large nuts sideways is a good bomber trick I've learned recently. Also, in the larger sizes they seem to be a tad lighter as well.
For the smaller sizes I reach for the BD's out of habit and familiarity. The plus for the DMM's are the grooves them which makes placing them on/around little crystals possible, and a little more secure. More noticeable in places like Jtree, and less noticeable in smooth granite like in the Sierra. Hard to clean? in theory yes... but in practice I've never placed one that didn't come out. Usually if a nut is stuck it would be stuck regardless of having little notches in them.
Nuts are bread and butter for trad climbing. I've got a set myself and am very happy with them.
However, when I fell on my No.3 nut, it vanished. Whether the wire snapped and spun off into the sea or was abducted by aliens, I'll never know.
To be honest, I'm of the opinion that most brands of nuts perform equally well. I never have any problems with my DMM ones, and I don't have problems when I use my mate's BD ones. He also got a set of WC ones for anchoring and they seem to perform well too.
Regarding removal, I've had to hack away with all the diff manufacturers nuts. That's just life. Not left a DMM nut behind yet, although my friend recently had to admit defeat when trying to retrieve one of his BD ones.
Easy to place, stays put. Everyone has their favorite set, and these are mine. The groove makes a tangible, positive difference occasionally, and is inconsequential at other times. Wallnuts don't make every other set obsolete, but the groove is a nice touch. I climb primarily on southeastern sandstone and when positioned carefully the groove seems to make it stick on the knobbly bits in cracks and move around less while the rope slides through. I have the habit of giving it two or three good tugs to set the piece and I haven't had any special trouble removing them, nor has my climbing partner. Even so, buy a nut tool. You'll need it now and again for any brand.
I bought a full set of these recently and have had ample time to use them. I had a set of BD stoppers and after using these don't find myself taking the BD set anymore. The groove down the center allows for more placements and more surface area on placements. They do seem to wedge themselves in securely with little force, haven't had an issue removing them yet, but haven't fallen on one either. All in all this would be my recommendation for stopper set. If you feel like you need more pieces I suggest you get the DMM Offsets to fill out your rack.
If it doesn't hold well on the first try, after I turn it around it seems to stick every time. Some of the reviews say they're more likely to get stuck. I'd agree that sometimes they stick a bit too well, but I'm more comfortable with the fact that I've only lost one versus the alternative of one that doesn't stick well enough. Invest in a good nut tool and it's rarely an issue and if it is, ohh well, the argument that your life is worth more than 8 dollars justifies if you have to leave one behind every now and then.
I love placing a good nut in funky cracks. These are much more solid than the BD nuts it many situations, and apparently it is hard to place a bad one even when I would be terrified to take a fall on one, my second said it was bomber, and actually had to bust out the tool.
Nothing too special to note, but was trying to decide between these and the standard BD stoppers. Happy I went with the DMM Wallnuts. I think their shape allows for better (easier) placements. Only downside is fewer total stoppers, but still plenty in my opinion assuming you have a full rack of cams.
Purchased the 1-11 set and have been very happy with these so far. The recess in the nuts adds some surface area in interesting placements and hold very well. Like said before, they sometimes seem harder to remove than other brands, but that could just be setting technique.
I would definitely recommend
i like these things a ton. can't say they're really all that different from other nuts i've used. without using them side-by-side it's hard to say which ones work "better." if i don't fall and get hurt, i'd consider these things to be doing their job. so far the'yre a-OK!
The Wallnuts are great. I have cleaned and set both these and BDs. The only downside is that they set so well that they are sometimes harder to clean than BDs. but, when i'm 15 ft above pro, ease of removal is the last thing on my mind.
I like having a great variety in my stoppers so I don't get stuck in a situation where only one type of stopper works and I don't have it. The scalloped back on these makes them even more versatile than some standard designs. The hollow design on the bigger ones also makes them a bit easier to clean since you can get a nut tool in there most times.