|Edelweiss Energy Arc 9.5 mm Rope||$219.95 - $279.95|
|Edelweiss Energy ARC 9.5 mm X 60 m Standard Climbing Rope||$189.95|
|Edelweiss Energy ARC 9.5 mm X 70 m Standard Climbing Rope||$219.95|
|Edelweiss Energy ARC 9.5 mm X 70 m Dry Climbing Rope||$259.95|
Intended use: 9.5mm is thin enough to be compact and a real weight saver, but thick enough to take abrasion and still last. I bought this as a 2nd rope with the intention of using at for belaying from above on harder single pitch trad, and at multipitch areas with long approaches and a walkoff.
Things I like:
+ This rope is silky and stiff - it feeds well, especially noticeable when belaying off the anchor at the top of a pitch. This also means it has lower friction through your protection system, allowing you to stretch pitches with less drag.
+ The bipattern weave (ARC) allows for quickly finding the midpoint, and knowing when you've passed it. Great for low-light rappels or measuring pitches.
+ The sheath is a one over one twill pattern (instead of the 2/2 found in almost all other ropes). Edelweiss calls this the HD cover, Maxim calls it the "glider". I've found that it reduces friction and noticeably improves wear.
+ Light weight and compact size is highly packable. This rope weighs 2lbs less than my 10.2. Thats like being able to carry an extra Liter of water.
Things I don't like
- Rope is difficult to rappel on with a regular ATC - A freehanging single rope rap would be dangerous without an extra friction device.
- Edelweiss packages their ropes awkwardly. Make sure to read the uncoiling instructions, or be prepared for a 30-45min knot.
- Center mark braiding is bumpy and uneven. This is not the case with other manufacturers Bipattern weaves. It seems that it will catch on the rock and abrade prematurely.
Overall, I'd highly recommend this as an all around rope for hard sport, multipitch, or belaying from above. You should get something much cheaper and more durable for toproping, and look into doubles/halves for climbs with long rappel descents.
I picked this rope up for a sport climbing trip to Greece last spring where 70+ meter ropes are the norm. I've long been a devote of Mammut ropes, but at the time, there weren't any available through BC.com. So, I took a chance and grabbed this cord. I've had the chance to climb and fall with it all summer, and I've been super stoked on it. 58g/m means that even at 80m, this thing is still fairly light. The bi-pattern weave has been super helpful when stringing together multiple raps. Despite the other reviewers experience, my rope is ultra smooth where the patterns come together, no issue there. I live in the Canadian Rockies were sharp limestone is the norm and this cord has held up really well. No core shots or abrasions despite some pretty heavy use. (I've done plenty of projecting on this cord too, it's not all sending ;) Falls have been nice & soft & I love the feel of this cord. I trust this rope with my life & would definitely recommend it to others.
What first impressed me about this rope is how light it is and how smooth it is clipping. The bi-pattern makes cleaning routes that much easier. The sheath kept the rope from expanding on some of the damper routes at Rumney. For the belayer, it's pretty slick out of the bag, but that improved quickly. So far, it seems pretty durable. I'll be sure to update this after more use.
I've climbed on Mammut or Edelweiss ropes for several years now. This is a great rope, has proven durable, light and very bright.
I must say, I was quite disappointed with this purchase. So much so that I have decided to return the Energy ARC. After reading many reviews, and hearing nothing but high praise for the 9.5 edelweiss, I decided to go ahead and try a new climbing rope out, while I have traditionally gone with metolius or mammut. Right out of the package the rope performed amazingly. Handled smoothly, felt durable, and provided an unbelievably soft catch. The ARC provided a smooth, quick feel in the hand for both the climber and the belayer. The rope looked amazing, and appeared as though it would hold up to a moderate amount of abuse. Not even two weekends of use later, the sheath has worn considerably, so much so that I have decided to return the rope. I can't pay close to $250 for a rope that only lasts for a couple of weekends. I'm going back to metolius.
This rope would be amazing if it held up to more use.
This is my second Edelweiss rope. I retired my first one after 4 years of use and it was great. However, this rope has been a disappointment. It handles well and is a great size and weight. Unfortunately, it is not durable at all. After light usage of five days of climbing the sheath has worn prematurely in several areas, along with core damage - without taking any falls.
This was my personal experience, but I have two friends who had the same rope who experienced the same exact issues I had with premature wear and core damage.
Perhaps it was a bad production batch, but I'll be hesitant to purchase another Edelweiss rope in the future.
My core shot for no good reason. Looking at the core shot I see the sheath is very thin. I guess I will be buying a different rope before too long.