The Shaman LV from Evolv is the ultimate low volume climbing shoe for steep to overhanging climbing. Designed with the same concepts as the Shaman, it incorporates exclusive technologies, unique materials and a new last perfect for low volume feet.
|Liner:||Microfiber forefoot, cotton heel, leather footbed|
|Midsole:||1 mm half length "Love Bump"|
|Shoe Profile:||Flat Profile|
|Sole:||4.2mm TRAX high friction rubber|
|Weight:||8 oz (half pair - women's size 7)|
So I got these shoes from my boyfriend as a Christmas gift! (yes, he really is the best!) and they are AMAZING! I love how light they are and the three hook and loop closure system is the best! I feel so secure and solid and the shoe stays to the skin at all times. I love how sticky the rubber is, I never have to worry about my foot slipping off unless its super polished and greasy. The shape and down turn are so helpful when it comes to getting up on your toes. Now the kicker is the toe! talk about kitty claws! you can literally stick the toe in a small little jig and with the help of the rubber it will hold! No problem crushing in these shoes.
The break in time is hard but that is pretty standard for most shoes. Don't be alarmed if it feels like your feet have been through Chinese foot binding this is normal. Give it about three sessions and you are golden! Also climbing with your shoes warm is the best way to break them in. I had the misfortune of getting them while the weather has been cold and it's taken me a bit longer to break them in but now I love them!
I wear a 6.5 in street shoes and the 6.5 in these fit just fine. At first they will feel small but they will stretch out I promise! I mainly boulder but these do great on sport routes as well.
If you are looking to progress and be a more aggressive climber these will help you out so much. I started climbing about four months ago and now I'm climbing v4+
I love these shoes and can't wait to get another pair after I blow these ones out! If you don't believe me? Read Jeni Nash's review!!! She Crushes!!
Also if you are looking into getting the mens version read BOTH of Grant Kates' review of these shoes.
I have extremely low volume feet with high arches, and these shoes feel like they were made for me. I've always been partial to evolv shoes because I like that they don't cut into the back of my heel the way other shoes always seem to. Until now, they haven't had an aggressive shoe specifically designed for women's feet. Get STOKED because these are just what the doctor ordered!
After asking the staff at Evolv about how the sizing of this shoe runs, I sized up to a 6.5 US to accommodate for the aggressive styling. This show is downturned and down cambered, love bump and different toe box (I wear a 5.5 US in Evolv Rockstars & Elektras; both of these shoes have ). Evolv's website has a great breakdown of different types of shoes here:
I've climbed on overhanging, slab, and cracks of granite in Little Cottonwood Canyon and indoors in these shoes (sport & bouldering). The styling really makes sticking the tiniest ledges almost effortless, and my ability to climb ceilings instantly increased due to the minimal effort I now need to use to keep my feet planted. The shoe is surprisingly comfortable for the style (not recommended for prolonged wear!), and the extra straps really allow you to cinch it down in a way that other velcro enclosure shoes have missed out on until now.
For what I have used them for thus far, they are shaping up to be a pretty amazing shoe. I give it five stars, and highly recommend it to others!
Perfect for a combination of bouldering and sport climbing. Also fits just as well as a lace-up shoe.
I wanted a more technical shoe for bouldering that could also be used for vertical climbs, and this shoe has the specs for both. The toe and the insole curve are just aggressive enough to encourage using your feet properly, but are not so downturned that they hinder edging and smearing.
Like everyone else has said, don't downsize for this shoe. I wear a 6.5-7 regular shoe, and the 6.5 Evolv has been perfect (although at first I could barely get my foot into it!). It is also a painful break-in. But it only took 2 days of climbing for them to stop hurting.
I have narrow feet, and almost had to buy lace-ups to get a good fit. No shoes that only have 2 velcro straps were snug enough. But the Shaman's three straps make a difference. The ability to take the shoes off between climbs means that they will continue to fit better than lace-up ones that you end up walking around in.
I wanted a more aggressive bouldering shoe, but struggled to find one that fit well due to my feet being cursed by the climbing gods (low volume with a morton's toe). Then the clouds parted and down came the shaman lv--roomy toe box, love bump and all that, but shrunk from the original shamans to fit narrow, thin feet.
I've been climbing in them for a few weeks now, so I can't comment on durability yet. However, size-wise. I'm a women's 9 in street shoes. I was climbing in Five Ten Anasazi's LV size 9 (which reminds me--I do miss the C4 rubber, but I'll get the Anasazi's resoled and split my allegiance). I found that I had to size down in the shamans to 8.5. My street shoe size had too much room in the heel and arch--it didn't feel very secure. 8.5 has been perfect.
These shoes are super fun. Grippy, sticky, and all around a fun shoe for all types of climbing. Finding that they don't mind if it's not overhanging..steep and small edges, chicken heads, pockets, etc, they like to dip their toe inthere and grab on :) ..overhanging, very fun, as they hook n loop when needed, and overall just feel good.
Sizing is true. I wear a 5-6 shoe in general depending on what brand and style..and in these I have a 5.5. Slightest bit narrow on my right foot, but nothing about the shoe, more about my foot :0).
These shoes are absolutely amazing! I had a pair of evolv shoes that weren't so aggressive and wanted a more aggressive shoe. They are able to get in spots that you wouldn't think would be possible. These are very comfortable despite how down turned they are. They are great for climbing as well as bouldering. I would definitely buy another pair of these! I normally wear a size 6 but went with a 6.5. The 6.5 fits perfect.
Had these shoes for almost two months now and I love them. Awesome grip, great fit, aggressive downturn. They run true to size. I wear a 7.5-8 in street shoes and got these in a 7.5. There is some air in the heel, but it's never caused an issue while climbing. As with most shoes, they start out tight and give a little, but still stay nice and snug. I would definitely recommend these