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Evolv Optimus Prime Climbing Shoe

Men's Footwear > ClimbingRated: ***** by 28 reviews.

Mountain Gear

Edge steep areas like a climbing machine in the Optimus Prime rock shoe from Evolv - it has more going on than meets the eye. Proving that you don't need to be the commander of the Autobots to dominate the climbing wall, the last was designed by Sharma himself, and the toe sports a Trax oval grid that, combined with the hi-friction rubber sole, provides you with high performance and extra traction. This product was selected for the Outside Magazine 2009 Buyer's Guide. Specifications based on size 9.

Features:

  • Edge and smear with plenty of grip provided by the Trax high-friction rubber outsoles
  • Keep your feet comfortable and cool no matter the climb in the soft interior lining and perforated synthetic upper that allows your feet to breath on those long, tough routes
  • NOTE: Vertical Summer 2008 catalog shows an incorrect sole material for this product. The Optimus Prime does not have Stealth Onyx rubber. The description on this web page is correct.

USOutdoor.com

The Optimus Prime Climbing Shoe is the fourth installment in the Sharma Signature Series of shoes. Who else better to design a climbing shoe than one of the strongest, most well acclaimed climbers in the world. Designed on a downcamberd last, the Optimus Prime has a deeper fitting heel and much stiffer heel cup than the Optimus.

Designed on a completely different last than any other climbing shoes, the Optimus Prime offers a symetric toe box (rounded toe box). It also has the oval grid pattern rand for added protection and for improved toe hooking while the hook-and-loop fastener maintains the shape for a tight fit.

Features:

  • LINING: Cotton fiber lining in heel cup and toe box 
  • MIDSOLE: MPX-1: 1.3mm stiff poly-dynamic#full-length midsole
  • PROFILE: semi symmetrical down cambered (CS1 last) 
  • RAND: 2.2mm TRAX duro-rand
  • SOLE: 4.2 mm TRAX XT-5 high friction rubber 
  • UPPER: perforated elastic Synthratek synthetic upper with mositure wicking qualities 

This description was also provided by: Al's Sports

Altrec

Based on Chris Sharma's climbing expertise and design ideas, the Evolv Optimus Prime Rock Climbing Shoe is the fourth model in the Sharma Signature Series. Designed like no other climbing shoe on the market, the Optimus Prime has a symmetric, round toe box, downcambered last, and deeper fitting and stiffer heel. The oval grid pattern rand provides additional protection and improved toe-hooking abilities while a Velcro closure keeps the Optimus Prime fit tight and secure.

Features:

  • Cotton fiber lining in heel cup and toe box
  • MPX-1: 1.3mm stiff poly-dynamic full-length midsole
  • Perforated elastic Synthratek synthetic upper with moisture wicking qualities
  • Semi symmetrical down cambered profile with CS1 lastT.2 mm TRAX XT-5 high friction rubber soleR.2mm TRAX duro-rand

Eastern Mountain Sports (EMS)

Designed on a completely different last than any other climbing shoes, the Optimus Prime offers a symetric toe box (rounded toe box). A flexible shoe that rewards strong climbers, the Optimus is the fourth installment in the Sharma Signature Series

Features:

  • Cotton fiber lining in heel cup and toe boxT.2 mm TRAX® XT-5 high friction rubber sole grips like a bulldog
  • Hook-and-loop fastener maintains the shape for a tight fit
  • Oval grid pattern rand for added protection and for improved toe hooking
  • Perforated elastic Synthratek synthetic upper with moisture wicking qualities
  • The Optimus Prime has a deeper fitting heel and much stiffer heel cup than the Optimus

Backcountry.com

As part of Chris Sharma’s signatures series, the Evolv Optimus Prime Climbing Shoe gives you uncompromising performance on steep sport climbs and boulder problems. Sharma designed the Optimus Prime with a down-cambered last and a symmetrical toe box for maximum power transmission on overhanging terrain. The deep heel cup and hook-and-loop straps keep your foot locked in, and the oval-grid rand gives you an edge on techy toe hooks.


Rock/Creek Outfitters

Free 2.5 oz of chalk with purchase of any climbing shoe! While supplies last.

Features:

  • Hook and loop closure for precise fit
  • Perforated synthetic upper
  • Soft interior lining
  • Trax high friction rubber outsole
  • Trax oval grid across toe
Asymmetrical Curvature:Medium
Avg. Weight (Pair):1 lb. 1 oz.
Lacing:Hook-and-loop
Last:Down-cambered
Lined:yes
Lining:[Heel Box & Toe] cotton
Material:Synthetic
Outsole:Trax rubber
Recommended Use:Sport climbing, bouldering
Sole:TRAX rubber
Upper:Synthetic
Weight:1 lb 1.6 oz
Weight per pair:1 lb 1.6 oz

View other products from Evolv classified in Men's Footwear > Climbing.

View all products from Evolv.
View other products classified in Men's Footwear > Climbing.

Sometimes, we can't be sure that the product is the same across the stores that offer its, so you may find the same product listed more then once on GearBuyer.com, we these list highly similar products below.

Evolv Optimus Climbing ShoesEvolv Optimus Climbing Shoes$65.37 - $108.95
silver star GearBuyer.com Top 25 Category Product
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Option Availability:

Use this chart to find which retailer offers this product in the size, color or other options that you desire. Click on the price to purchase.

SizeColor
Yellow/ Black
Yellow/ Black
Black / Yellow
Black / Yellow
Yellow
Yellow
N/A
4124.95 125.00 
4.5124.95 125.00 
5  125.00 
5.5124.95 125.00 
6124.95124.95 125.00 
6.5124.95 124.95125.00 
7124.95124.95 124.95125.00 
7.5124.95124.95 124.95125.00 
8124.95 124.95125.00125.00
8.5124.95120.00124.95125.00125.00
9124.95120.00124.95125.00125.00
9.5 120.00124.95125.00125.00
10124.95124.95120.00124.95125.00125.00
10.5124.95124.95 124.95125.00125.00
11124.95124.95120.00124.95125.00125.00
11.5124.95120.00125.00125.00
12124.95120.00124.95125.00125.00
12.5124.95 125.00125.00
13  125.00 
13.5124.95 125.00 

Legend

  •     - USOutdoor.com
  •     - Backcountry.com
  •     - Eastern Mountain Sports (EMS)
  •     - Mountain Gear
  •     - Altrec
  •     - Rock/Creek Outfitters

Notes:

Al's Sports offers this product at $124.99, but does not provide any color/size information.

Evolv Optimus Prime Climbing Shoe Reviews Summary:

RatingNumber
of Reviews
*****22
****4
***2
**0
*0
To see how this product compares to others view Men's Climbing Shoe Reviews.

Positive Reviews:

pretty great

Rating:*****

My street shoe is a 10.5, occasionally 10. After climbing in Katanas (41.5) for the past six months (loved the fit, hated the lack of durability on the rand), I tried out 5.10 Galileos (9.5), 5.10 Anasazi Verdes (9.5), Evolv Pontas (9.5), and Evolv Optimus Prime (10). As has been noted by others, the Primes are very tight. I literally can not get my foot inside a (9.5), and the (10s) are still incredibly snug, but, i think, due to the symmetrical toe, not incredibly painful. I am only using the Primes inside, and I've kept the Anasazi Verdes for outside, since I would give that shoe the nod for edging ability (asymmetric toe and all). But the Primes stick to everything I've wanted them to inside and somehow manage to be extraordinarily snug while reasonably comfortable. So far, no signs of trouble with durability -- we'll see. So check these out - just don't kid yourself into thinking that you'll down size these much, if at all. And if the Primes aren't a good match for you, might want to check out those Verdes....

Jonathan Ellsworth at Backcountry.com on 07/03/2009

Very happy with this shoe

Rating:*****
These shoes seem to run on the small side. I had to size up from the Pontas, and still got a very tight fit. I was worried when I first tried them because my toes were mashed in, and standing on firm ground can be uncomfortable. They have a fairly extreme down turned last, which again can be uncomfortable when standing.
As soon as you get off the ground you seem to forget them, and after a few times out they begin to mold to your feet (they do not stretch in length however). The camber makes under clings much easier, and the shoe seems to do very well in everything I have tried. The Velcro also makes removing them very quick and easy between runs.
Overall, I feel the Pontas is a bit more comfortable if you plan on standing around in them. If you want a technical shoe and don't mind taking them off between runs, this shoe is amazing. Very happy with the purchase.
Micah at Rock/Creek Outfitters on 10/16/2008

great for heels and small round toes, not so great for edging

Rating:****
I love Evolve- they fit my feet well. I wear a size 6 womens street shoe and a size 5 in the blue evolve (Hera), which I love! Initially I got the same equivalent size as I wear in the Hera- which was a 4- way TOO SMALL! A 5 is snug so that's what I have. 5.5 would probably be more comfortable, but as I was looking for high performance for short, tough problems, I'm sticking with the 5. I was looking for a slightly more aggressive shoe for overhanging sport and bouldering routes. I found it in the optimus prime. The heel sticks to whatever you put it on- and has some extra padding without loss of sensitivity so the heels are not as painful as in some other shoes. I don't recommend the shoes for slabby or vertical climbing. Due to the rounded toe, they don't edge nearly as well as other shoes I've worn.
Anonymous at Altrec on 07/10/2009

Best Shoes Ever

Rating:*****
The first thing that turned me on to this shoe was the symmetrical toe box. After trying many different shoes in several sizes each, I could not get a comfortable fit because my second toe is longer than my first. Shoes that have asymmetrical toes created painful hotspots that prevented me from putting all my weight on my feet. When I first tried the Optimus Primes, I pulled off moves and successfully climbed routes and problems that I couldn't do before. I'm not saying it's all in the shoes, but it is a little bit. The Trax rubber holds very well on both rock and gym surfaces. Edging, smearing, and hooking ability is awesome. Another great thing about them is how well they fit while still being very snug. I don't have to take them off between climbs like I did with other shoes. Evolv's sizing chart is dead-on, so you're sure to get a perfect fit!
TrickyNick at Eastern Mountain Sports (EMS) on 10/17/2008

Great all-around shoes

Rating:*****
The Optimus Prime are great shoes for bouldering, sport (vertical/overhanging), and pretty much everything else so long as the shoe fits you. I've never had too many problems finding shoes that fit, but these shoes fit exceptionally well. Here's my sizing to give you an idea; I'm a 9.5 street shoe. 9.5 in Optimus Prime, 9.0 in Pontas, 8.5 in Fiveten Anazasi VCS, 40.5 in Sportiva Testarosa, 40.0 in Muiras. Some break-in time is required in these; however, they almost mold to your feet and are great on small holds as well as pulling on overhanging routes. Haven't noticed a lack in performance due to the symmetrical toe-box. Precision is dead on. The slight down-turn adds a good performance aspect to this shoe, while still being very comfortable. Toe-hooking is super easy as well given the trax oval rand. Typically, if you can fit into other evolv shoes, these should work. Hope this helps.
bryan b at Eastern Mountain Sports (EMS) on 10/24/2008

Awesome, super tight

Rating:*****

This was the first shoe I ever bought by evolve... and they are awesome!!! The downturn is just enough, the heel is pretty close to perfect, the trax rubber has stuck to nearly everything so far, and the rubber on the top has even helped keep them from getting torn up on some toe hooks! Watch out when ordering, they run very small. All my other climbing shoes are 44 and 1/2 while these are 45 and they fit wayyyy tighter than the other pairs. I recommend a half size up from your normal climbing shoe. Despite being tight they are actually really comfortable. Nice job Sharma! maybe give up climbing and just design shoes! haha

Joey Hannes at Backcountry.com on 03/25/2009

Great shoe

Rating:*****
These shoes are great. i had trouble sizing them at first because they are synthetic and will not stretch it can be tough what size to order. when buying them remember to be aware of evolv's statement of they fit true to street shoes and they will not stretch. other than that i love my primes. they are great at smearing and edging. heeling hooking is great in these shoes. i've only had a chance to climb them inside so far and they have elevated me in competition. also the Velcro makes them great for easy on and offs between climbs. overall the best shoe i've ever used.
Optimus at Rock/Creek Outfitters on 02/16/2009

I can climb stuff I couldn't before

Rating:*****
I previously only had big wall shoes and have gotten into bouldering. A little tougher to get a lot of contact for smearing than my other shoes, but I expected that. I can definitely climb stuff on the bouldering wall I couldn't before. I think it edges just fine for me. I wear a size 14-15 street shoe and got these from altrec because they actually have them in 13.5, which curl my toes the slightest amount but seem to be just fine. Climbing on the tiny crystals has always been tough for me with my big feet but these do it without a problem.
Steve at Altrec on 07/22/2009

awesome shoe!

Rating:*****
this is a really great shoe. there is quite a bit of rubber on it which makes it the perfect shoe if you do s lot of toe hooking! the aggressive fit lets you wedge your foot into the smallest little cracks that would be unusable with some other shoes!
BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU'RE BUYING THESE! if you are going to buy them online, go somewhere and try them on first! my street shoe is an 8 1/2 - 9 and i bought a 10 in these and it fits VERY snug! so dont buy these without trying them on first!
2 (K) at Rock/Creek Outfitters on 12/05/2008

Great shoe

Rating:*****
These shoes are great. They are highly aggressive and very sticky. I've bouldered in them several times outdoors. The heel is awesome and sticks well. My heel feels very solid in the heel cup.
For climbers looking for a comfortable fit, I'd go a half size bigger than my street shoe. I went with my street shoe size because I had nowhere local to try these shoes on to get a fit and my street size is painfully tight. So try a half size to a full size bigger than your street size if you're looking for comfort.
Andrew the Mandrew at Rock/Creek Outfitters on 06/16/2009

Neutral Reviews:

Pretty good, but not WOW!

Rating:***
Some how I ended up with a pair of these. It's a long story. I've never been a fan of Evolv shoes or Trax rubber. I got these while I was waiting for a pair of shoes from another company that were being warrantied. Also not a huge fan of the rounded toe box. They edge well don't get me wrong, but trying to get in to those little pockets where a more pronounced toe point would help isn't as confidence inspiring. I slipped off a few things that I've never slipped on before, but as I wore them I sort of honed in on how they perform best. I got to liking them. I would have to say though that if agree that Vibram xs grip is outstanding than you won't be as excited about Trax rubber. It does have a great solid heel though and the rubber over the toes is well placed as well. I think overall they are good shoes. If I had a choice I would have went for something else comparable (solutions, jet 7, booster) but when you're handed shoes you shouldn't complain. All and all it is another option in the steeps type shoe.
shorty at Eastern Mountain Sports (EMS) on 08/17/2008

A cool shoe but...

Rating:***

...they wear out way too fast! My pair lasted for 2 months and now both toe caps are broken and the soles are full of small cuts. The rubber sure is sticky but... Well, as they say, you can't get everything. If you're prepared to pay for the short fun, go ahead. I myself am going back to La Sportiva's Miura VSs (which is an excellent shoe forgetting that the front velcro attachment tears off after a while =) and consider trying 5.10 Dragons out....

Skoude at Backcountry.com on 09/18/2009