The Anasazi Arrowhead features the next generation Anasazi last with a downturned toe and a higher arch offers a snug, precision fit. The upper is a supple, breathable Cowdura™ that molds to the foot. New heel cup hugs the foot and stays in place. The toe rand is made of extremely durable and high friction Stealth® Mystique™ rubber and the Onyxx™ outsoles are the benchmark in edging performance.
|Actual Weight:||Orange Crush, 9.5: 214g|
|Awards:||2011 Award Winners|
|Material:||Synthetic Cowdura™ upper|
|Materials:||Synthetic Cowdura™ upper|
|Recommended Use:||rock climbing, bouldering|
|Shoe Profile:||Aggressive Profile|
|Sole:||[toe rand] Stealth Mystique rubber, [midsole] Stealth Onyxx|
|Weight:||(Size 9) 9.2oz/260.82g|
|Five Ten Anasazi Arrowhead||$127.96 - $154.95|
|Five Ten FIVE.TEN Anasazi Arrowhead Climbing Shoes||$124.00|
These shoes suprised me the first time I opened the box, they are bright, bright orange. From pictures online its hard to tell, but buyers beware. Anyway, these shoes once I tried them on hurt my feet... alot, usually I try to downsize my rock shoes at least half to a full size, but these I had to go big. I was a little disapointed with the fit and feel, I put them on and took a lap around the living room, and let me say, my toes were numb when I took them off, but never the less I took a leap of faith and bought them.
Two weeks latter...
Once I broke these shoes in I love them, no doubt, one hundred percent. What hurt originally was the tops of my toes that were constantly being forced against the top of the shoe. I later have found out that the perferated rand is there for a reason, after a good five bouldering sessions my feet felt fine, and I'm very glad. How do they preform? Amazingly. I can stand on the smallest micro edges with ease. I can jam and twist my foot into any position I need to in order to make the move necessary. This shoe took me from the world of V1-3, into the world of V4-6. I can now top out on 11a,b,c,d's. And can lead them in the gym too. Let me make myself perfectly clear when I say these shoes don't mess around. Plus the velco dual closure system and split tounge openning allow me to take this shoe on and off in record time, letting my feet take a break. The Cowdura tounge and full lined synthetic upper wick all moisture of my feet and keep me cool as well as dry for long climbs and never ending multi-pitch routes.
The only thing this shoe might lack is grip on overhanging routes. Unfortuanately me, being an avid boulderer, need a shoe than can grip to what ever I thow it on. Infact I was a little disapointed with Five Ten for not finding a way to make their ONYX rubber stickier. But, after all, it is alot harder and more durable than many other rubbers, like Vibram's Ex-s Edge, MadRock's Science Friction, and Evolv's Trax rubber. I have only owned La Sportivas and Five Tens so far, so I'm not fermiliar with the preformance of these other rubbers. All I know is that I love these shoes, next pair might be a more bouldering- oriented shoe, hopefully that will edge similarly to this one. By the way, this shoe has a very wide heel cup, and me having a narrow heal have alot of trouble heel hooking on smaller holds. As far as toe hooking goes, I recommend Five Ten's Stealth Paint. If you can get it to work it provides massive coverage for crack climbing and toe hooks, BUT MAKE SURE you've broken in the shoe before applying it. Like I said the toe does expand and conform to your foot after a while.
In conclusion, I recommend this shoe to people who want to work their way into more advanced, and better preforming climbing footwear. This shoe, being down turned and rather uncomfortable at first, isn't a very good shoe for beginners. Good luck to all the climbers out there, and buyers, if this shoe sounds like he one you want I highly encourage you to get it, it's worth the high price.
These shoes are sick!!! I have been climbing in them for about 3 weeks, the break in period was a little rough but not too bad, after 4 or 5 times climbing in them in the gym they broke in pretty well and became a lot more bearable. They have a much more aggressive camber and toe hook than the Anasazi VCS, so this is going to be more of a steep wall/bouldering shoe than the Anasazi VCS which is a very solid all around shoe with little to no camber. They have a very tight heel that nearly forms a suction cup perfect for heel hooks. The camber on the sole makes them great for people with higher arches. I have found these are great for edging and toeing in on overhanging walls, but on slab the camber makes them more difficult to smear with. These are an awesome shoe for anyone looking for an agressive bouldering or sport shoe for climbing overhung walls.
As far as sizing goes I would recommend sizing down a half size from your street shoe size of you want a very agressive fit. My other shoes are the 5.10 Anasazi VCS and for those I sized a full size down from my street shoe for a very snug performance fit. With my Arrowheads I only sized down a half size because they run very tight on account of the narrow last and the fact that they have a cambered sole and a fairly agressive toe hook which both cut down the volume of the shoe quite a bit. At first I thought even going a half size down might have been too tight but after they broke in a little bit they were perfect, still very tight, but perfect for what I was looking for in an agressive bouldering shoe.
I got these a couple months ago and I love them. For the record, I have a bit of a Mortons toe and these fit beautifully, something I didnt expect from such an asymmetrical shoe. The pointy toe is fantastic for getting into pockets, edging feels like your standing on a platform, and heel-hooking is a dream (when fit correctly, read below). These are not truly all-round shoes, more for those overhanging sport/bouldering routes, but they are perfect when paired with a more natural-last shoe that you can stand around in all day. They are okay for smearing in, though not great, and there is no rubber on the top for toe hooking which means if you are a very heavy toe-hooker it may wear out on top faster than youd like.
A note about fitting: The Anasazi series has a very form-fitting heel that can be a pain at first. I have read a lot of complaints about the heel compressing a lot in the Anasazi series of shoes, but this is because they fitting them correctly. In general, a half size down from your street shoe is likely idea for these. The heel folds in when not in use (this ensures the snug fit) and it is easy to put them on without getting your foot all the way into the heel of the shoe. When you are pulling on the heel, make sure to extend your toes outwards like youre pushing it away. This makes sure that your foot slides in nicely and the heel fits snuggly, and it also keeps your toes from being so curled that it hurts.
Overall, I am extremely happy with this shoe and would recommend it to just about anyone.
as the title says, these shoes are phenomenal. the edging on these shoes is unmatched. my foot hasnt slipped off the tinniest of all footholds since ive gotten these, and i can stand on just about anything while feeling completely secure, and confident. They are not the most downturned shoes, and lose a bit of aggressiveness after a few times in them, but still are great on overhangs. it has a nice pointy toe for digging deep into pockets. people say they are uncomfortable, but once you break them in, i think they are one of the more comfortable downturned shoes. smearing of course isnt all that great, but then again why would you expect such a downturned shoe to be good at smearing. And of course you cant go wrong with these shoes, as they have five tens stealth onyxx rubber, which i believe is the best rubber out there. i wear a 10.5 street shoe, and went with a 9.5 in these. the first couple days were pretty agonizing, but after a while they were quite comfortable, and the performance fit is well worth it. my only concern is that i am beginning to see glue from where the rubber toe cap was. No matter what level of climber you are, This shoe will easily improve your climbing.
I looked at a lot of options before buying these shoes, it came down to either these or the La Sportiva Katana's. La Sportiva is tricky for me because I have a wider toe box, and I haven't ever seemed to feel comfortable in Evolvs. When I demo'd these I was pretty impressed - the heel fit and the cambered sole are fantastic for bouldering and technical sport climbing. I use them primarily for these purposes, and a little multi-pitch.
The edging is fantastic, the smearing is very good for a downturned shoe, and they provide a feeling of power in the toe area when you're barely able to get a toe in tiny foothold pockets. I personally prefer the Mystique rubber over the Onyx, it seems to provide both sensitivity along with confidence that my foot isn't going to slip. The 5.10 Quantum seems to be a very similar designed shoe but with laces.
I do wish they had a little more rubber on the toe, and not to sound petty, but did it have to be bright orange? Other than that they're pretty rad, glad I picked them up.
not impressed. its a basic downturned velcro shoe.
no fancy design innovations. no real improvements.
IMO this shoe is just an orange version of evolv predator(first model)