The first thing...Alex D from NY improperly reviewed that these are real leather. They are cowdura uppers: synthetic. And trust me they stretch less than half a size if at all. Break in is near immediate. Someone else mentioned the shoes being unforgiving to those with poor foot technique. Maybe that's it, but I can climb in the V9 level and felt that it was truly the shoe not my technique. My Miura lace and Testarossas give me zero problems where as I lost toes on relatively great holds with these. After about two weeks I sent these to be resoled with sportiva rubber and that fixed my problem. Up to you; was it placebo effect? They're comfortable shoes though. Narrower heel than both my sportivas. I wear 9.5 streets, 10 Arrowhead, 40 (us7.5) Miura and Testarossa and they all fit about the same tightness. I wear my shoes with socks and very tight. Tight enough that when I go sockless it's not a problem, they still fit tight enough. Arrowheads are a good middle...but being a middle they're lost in limbo to me. They don't really excel at anything if you ask me. I suggest getting two pairs: a super aggressive and a flat (Miura lace and Testarossa combo). And if you only want one shoe, go super aggressive. I have no problem using Testarossas on slab but have found great improvement in the underhangs with the Testarossa compared to the Miuras.
A+ for all around sport and bouldering
I have owned more climbing shoes than I would ever admit. I would consider these to be some of the best all around shoes on the market and possibly the best.
Until now five ten did not offer their own option to sportiva's popular miura velcro. We had the anasazi velcro but it did not feature a downturned toe that can make the difference on some small edges. Enter the Arrowhead!
The arrowhead is much like the stand by anasazi velcro. I would wear the same size in both models. A great all around shoe that now adds that little extra edging confidence with the new toe. The difference I would say is the width of the shoe. I would consider the old velcro to be a wider cut than the new arrowhead.
In other words I would say the arrowhead is MORE narrow than the Anasazi Velcro.
I would compare this shoe to the sportiva miura velcro however would say it is a better all around choice but slightly less aggressive.
Just got my new Arrowheads, and I'm pretty psyched about them. I've put them through a couple gym days, and they're perfect all-arounders. I love my Moccs, but they aren't great edgers. And my Teams are sweet bouldering/steep sport shoes, but are too aggro and too uncomfortable for low angle sport routes. The Arrowheads perfectly hit the gap in between. Onyxx rubber is the best edging compound available. They're a little downturned to handle steeps, but not so much that you can't use them on slab. They're fairly stiff, but are breaking in nicely, and I imagine they'll be smearing with the best of them in no time. They're a lot narrower than the old Anasazis (both in the toe and heel), which is great if you have a low-volume foot like me. Much better fit than the original VCS, and even the Moccasym. I wear a size 9 Mocc, size 11 Team, 43 Miura, 11 Pontas, and a 10 in Arrowheads. Can't wait to get these outside.
I have tried almost all of the climbing shoe brands and I have to give it to Five Ten, they have the best rubber. As with all climbing shoes, you have to try them. People who swear by shoes do so probably because they fit their feet so well, so to each his own. For these shoes, I liked the shape of the shoes. They are on the narrow side and they can really pull on holds well. I use them only for overhanging routes as they do not smear so well and is overkill on vertical walls. The only complaint I have is that for aggressive downturned shoes for overhanging routes, how can they not put rubber on the toes? Come on Five Ten, toe hooking is so common on roofs and stuff. Also some of my friends find these shoes quite unforgiving if you do not have good footwork.
Great downturned velcro shoe
First of all, there is no magical shoe for all places and all people. However, if you are looking for a great sport climbing or bouldering shoe for steep climbs, and you have somewhat of a wider foot, this is a great shoe.
Five Ten rubber is simply the greatest, and if you fit these right, they will improve your climbing. I would size them as small as I can get into, and then be patient with the break-in time.
I've worn both the Galileos and older Anazasis on many climbs, and these shoes are an improvement on both models.
There aren't many negatives to find if you have the right foot for these shoes, but the color certainly isn't my preference. However, if I can climb better with a shoe, color is the least of my concerns. Go try them on.
top end shoe
An excellent shoe all round--few if any drawbacks. It is not as aggressive as it looks when new, but breaks in to a really functional, precise, slight down-toe that edges like a dream. My favorite all round shoe is the Anasazi velcro, followed by the greenie, Anasazi Verde. They edge very well, don't kill the feet, smear on anything; they also keep their shape better than the Muira lace-up, another really fine shoe. The Arrowhead is designed for edging and does it better than the other Anasazis, but smears well too. Most times, except for long multipitch routes, I look for this shoe or the Anasazi velcro. The fit of the Arrowhead, I have found, is narrower and tighter than the VCS or Verde. I wear a 9 in those and have to go to 9.5 in the Arrowheads.
I had the older version of these before and recently bought the newer version with the updated Stealth rubber. They fit pretty much the same as the older version, which is great. I've used these shoes for everything from bouldering to multi-pitch sport routes. The heal cup fits really well and the slightly downturned toe helps out on steeper routes. The only downside is that the fingerloops are way too small for my fingers, so they can be kind of a hastle to take on and off. PS - These run smaller than most Five Ten's. I wear a size 10.5 in Mocassyms and an 11.5 in these.
Considerably more comfortable than the blackwings due to the leather uppers. Shoes with synthetic uppers are hit or miss becuase either they fit perfect out of the box or don't and then they won't stretch a bit in the hot spots. The downturned toe is nice and they make a good shoe that has high performance but still relatively comfortable (if you can say that about high performance climbing shoes). They are perfect for gym bouldering where you don't need as precise of footwork as you do outdoors. Same sizing as the rest of the anazasi line.
These are amazing shoes. They fit great, are sensitive and super sticky. They broke in very quick and molded perfectly to my foot. I love the heel, it really stays. I sized them tight and I can still keep them on for long bouldering seshs. The stealth rubber is great, as always. After a month of heavy use indoors and out, they have lost a bit of their downturn, partially because of the softness of the shoe and the forming to my foot. I wear a 9 Evolv Pontas and an 8.5 Arrowhead.
jack of all trades
First things first: I have a pair in my street shoe size, and I have a pair a 1/2 size above street shoe (see dpm review). Except for the absolutely most critical sends, I won't wear the smaller ones. The pressure on top of the big toe knuckle is ridiculous.
Otherwise, I have a mid-volume foot (no Flinstone feet here) and the Arrowhead is the perfect fit--mainly bouldering but also some vert and less-than-vert sport.