The Five Ten Anasazi VCS Climbing Shoe is perhaps the most adept all-around climbing shoe ever made, which is likely the reason it's also the best selling performance shoe ever made. The medium-stiff midsole combines with the stealth Onyxx rubber for lethal edging ability while the dual hook-and-loop straps make on and off an easy operation.
The Five Ten Anasazi VCS is designed for 5.10 to 5.16 and is an icon in the climbing world. The VSC's easy-on and easy-off design is only part of the reason this is the world's top-selling performance shoe. As for the rest of the story, the shoe climbs like a spider monkey - there's no stopping its upward progress.
|Closure:||Velcro Brand Strap|
|Shoe Profile:||Moderate Profile|
|Upper:||Lined Cowdura Synthetic|
|Weight:||7.2 oz / 204.5 g (Single Shoe)|
|Five Ten Anasazi VCS Climbing Shoe New||$124.95 - $159.95|
these shoes are a great all around shoe. It doesn't get sloppy cause the synthetic material, it doesn't stretches but it will conform a little so size accordingly. The shoes' toebox has a semi a-symmetrical shape which is pretty good for toeing into pockets but better for small edges. The ONYX rubber is really sticky, like I always heard it was sticky and didn't really think it could be that much of a difference but Holy cow it puts the rest of my shoes with Vibrum XS to shame. My one complaint about the shoe is right now the rubber is a little thick so I can't feel much of the rock which scares me, But that just means it'll last longer, I think I still just need to break them in a little more. I wear 11.5-12 street shoes and went with and 11.5 in Anasazi VCS. They fit well for wide feet like mine.
I recommend for an all everyday sport climbing shoe. Good for limestone, and sandstone but not so much on the granite. I tried to crack climb in these once and I was hurtin.
-meh for smearing on slabs
-no way on cracks
-toe hooks only if i had to
-heel hooks yes but overhangs not really
-if you're into bouldering check out the anasazi moccasyms for a more casual shoe.
That may have sounded a little negative but this is still a GREAT shoe and is pretty much my go to shoe that I save for outdoors sport climbing.
If I could only take 1 pair of shoes this would be them.
I generally wear tiny uncomfortable shoes when I boulder, but I got my "comfy" size in the Anasazi's for outdoor leading and general bouldering days when my feet have swelled up and I can't fit into my performance shoes anymore. My foot is 9.5 inches long, and I got these in 8.0. I have about a half inch or so of play in the toes when i'm crimping them, so I could have sized down another half size with ease, but this is what I got them for.
The Onyx rubber is incredibly sticky and durable and these have quickly become a shoe I go to day after day just for the sheer comfort, performance, and durability of them. The support is there for micro edging and they smear like a dream too.
The heel cup takes some time to break in, but once they do (i don't have a large heel) they hook like a dream with minimal deadspots. They suction well enough to my feet so i'd say 9 times out of 10 I don't even close the velcro on them. Can send and send in comfort and style. Get a pair. Get two! Get them now!
Sure the blackwings can toe in a bit better on 90degree roofs but you sacrifice the comfort these give. The upper stretches a bit with time forming the shoe to your foot. These are comfy enough for a few hours of multipitch. The velcro closure is secure and the opening is big enough for easy on and off. The heel is a little big and floppy but honestly the shoe molds to irregularities of the rock and only are a downside on small edges and rails. These have the onyx rubber which I personally think is too firm but very durable. After hitting the rand on one shoe I sent them in to get resoled with some Mystique and these are now the best smearing shoes I've ever had.
There is a reason you see these at every craig, gym and boulder yard, they are a industry standard.
Here's of photo of my Anasazis in action. No problem sticking to those rocks! Due to the synthetic material, these are starting to get a bit more comfy after wearing them for 20+ climbs. Doesn't stretch much, but forms to your feet after a little bit of use.
I have worn these shoes for years and always have a couple pairs on hand. Size it street shoe size for multi pitch. or size down half a size for a more aggressive fit. These edge like no other and are very comfortable
They're real sticky, just stiff and aggressive enough to edge, but they still work for moderate crack climbing. And they're comfortable enough for multipitch climbs.