|Weight:||6.7 oz/ 189.94 g|
|Five Ten Siren||$99.95 - $144.95|
|Five Ten FIVE.TEN Siren Climbing Shoes||$125.00|
I've been out of climbing for a while. Back in the day I used to climb in Five Ten Dragons and Boreal Matrix's, both shoe sized aggressively tight. It was surreal to me to have a shoe that I could pull hard on 10d/11a in the gym and not have to slip them off as soon as I hit the ground. The upper is super soft and stretches nicely. The rubber grips, well like stealth rubber always does, solidly. I tried to go cheap at first and bough a pair of Evolv's before this but the rubber just wasn't up to what I have grown used to with Five Ten and I quickly snatched these up.
Now the bad:
-stink, these shoes do not breath at all, and your feet will SWEAT!! I use cedar blocks in them to help afterwards, but they are still not allowed inside my climbing bag (I use the water bottle pocket on the outside for them)
-although exceedingly comfortable, I wish I had sized just a hlaf size down, after 2 months of 3-4 day a week gym climbing the rubber around the crease between my tows and top of my foot is starting to pull away, I think due to the ammount of pressure put on the spot when i climb
-the laces are WAY to long, both the regular and elastic are SUPER long. I got around this by cutting the elastics and burning the ends together about 2 inches above where the are tight on my foot, this way i can get in and out easily, but am not worried about stepping on my laces.
Overall, I love these shoes, they have there foibles for sure, but the comfort combined with the sweet rubber really make them my fave all around shoe.
The Siren was my first pair of climbing shoes, in '07. As a beginner climber, I appreciated that they were super-comfortable right out of the box - not too tight in the toebox, not super-downturned, and highly adjustable through the laces. As a rapidly-improving climber, I appreciated that they were precise and technical enough to take me from a complete beginner to a reasonably competent climber.
They did stretch out quite a lot while I was climbing 3 or 4 times a week in them, largely due to the fact that they didn't dry between climbing sessions, I think. Between the stretching and the fact that I'm looking for a lot of precision when I'm bouldering now, I don't use them much indoors anymore except for warm-up, and if I were to buy them again I'd go down half a size. Now, I find that they're snug enough when I first put them on, but as my feet sweat and the shoes get damp (and I move to harder problems), I have to switch to my tighter shoes.
These shoes are now the ones that I wear outdoors - far more comfortable than my newer shoes, older so I'd rather get them all dirty than my new ones, and I'm not climbing at a level outdoors where I'm needing the extra feel I get in my newer (and tighter) shoes.
I love these shoes, and they'd be 5 stars no problem except for the stretching.
Got these and as many other reviewers have stated, they are comfy out of the box and yes they do stretch. The speed laces are useless too (pretty flimsy and did not do up tight enough). I was actually very hesitant in purchasing these shoes as my feet are very difficult to size. I have very small (UK3) wide feet, so I was quite nervous when I got them out of the box and saw how narrow they were. The heel was looked too narrow for wide feet. However, because they do stretch, after about 3 weeks, they were actually a comfortable fit. I use them trad climbing and although they have stretched a bit, I find using the regular laces, I can get them tight enough for good feel on the rock. They are grippy enough to smear with (doing some sandstone rock at the moment) and precise enough on and around the toe for edges and very tiny lips. The rubber did soften up a lot quicker than I expected. With these shoes, even when my feet are swollen and sweaty, they don't blister/slide/make noises (had a velcro pair which scared the crap out of me whenever I positioned my feet in an awkward position). Overall, a good starter climbing shoe.
These are my first pair of climbing shoes and I love them. They've made an awesome difference in how I climb! I was warned that climbing shoes were supposed to be awful to begin with for 20-25 indoor pitches but these are totally fine, obviously more snug than my regular shoes but after the first use (a 3hr session) only one of my big toes was a bit sore from being more squished than usual but no blisters or anything. I have a wide foot and these are such a good fit - if you're new to climbing these are totally worth the $$. They're a great beginner shoe!! Thanks 5.10
Great shoes - I have a hard time finding a technical shoe that fits my narrow, low volume foot. These are fabulous. The heel fit is great without digging into my achilles tendon and the last is curved enough to provide for precision edging without mangling my foot. Not the most comfortable for slabby, featureless, face smearing and long trad routes, but great for small edges and steep sport routes. I've tried about 10 different pairs of shoes and these are the bomb. I wear a women's 9.5 to 10 in street shoes and bought these in a 9. Perfect.
Love them. Seems to be sized a little small. I normally wear a 7.5, got these in an 8. The fit it great. Snug heel, good arch, doesn't kill the toes. I can wear them on long multi pitch without discomfort and they still perform well as good as I could want them. Just got done with a week in Cochise Stronghold. Everything I did required trusting feet a lot!. It didn't take long to learn to trust the shoes to smear all over those walls.
I've used these for over a year now on everything from indoor top- roping, indoor bouldering, competitions, outdoor trad, sport and top roping, outdoor bouldering and crack climbing! they've done well for me in all these different situations and are comfortable to wear all day! definitely would recommend these for anyone
I have wider feet, but these fit great! They were a little bit tight at first but stretched to the size of my foot perfectly. Definitely size down a half size from what you normally wear to give you some room for stretch!
Love these for the feet swelling days.
The slight stretch gives your feet the tender loving care they need for the latter days of climbing trips so you can continue to perform on day 10 as well as you did on day 1.
The Sirens were super comfortable, right out of the box; also, the Stealth rubber is unbeatable. However, after only a few months indoor climbing, they fell apart. Now the fabric is almost completely detached from the rubber around the sides, and I must mention, that I take perfect care of my shoes (I never walked in the Sirens and stored them in their original box whenever I wasn't climbing). But, I am also confused because it seems no one else has run into this issue, so perhaps I simply got a bad pair. Bottom line: I do not reccomend this shoe for anyone, but i do reccomend the 5.10 Dragons. They have the awesome Stealth rubber like the Sirens, but are all-around better.
These shoes suck. I loved them at first. Got them as my trad shoes. So, they were tight but still comfy enough to wear them a whole day without being in excruciating pain. When I bought them, I got told that they basically don't stretch (or just a little).
Little did I know. They stretched a whole lot. Even with socks, they are way too big, especially the toe box and there is no way to tie them any tighter either.
I am terribly disappointed, especially as these shoes have not seen to much use either before stretching out that much.
Those shoes are useless for me and I am selling them again.
I would not recommend these shoes.
I'll start by saying I have strangely sweaty feet, so I don't think I'll buy synthetic shoes ever again. These shoes were comfy right out of the box and I was very happy with them for a couple months.... HOWEVER
1. They stretched. I bought synthetic figuring it wouldn't stretch, but the ventilation holes all over the upper slowly enlarged and the shoe stretched a full size.
2. They got siiiiiiiiiiiiiiinky. Like... I don't want to touch my shoe because the stink got on my hand type of stinky.
Overall, they get the job done. They were a good comfy shoe, especially for all day out-door use.