Anti-balling Plates: | yes |
---|---|
Binding Type: | Hybrid |
Boot Size Range: | 36 thru 47 |
Material: | Steel |
Number of Points: | 11 or 12 |
Weight: | 34.35 oz. |
A friend of mine who knows much more about these things recommended these to me as a pair of crampons good for ice climbing as well as mountaineering.
I've only had the opportunity to use them once so far and they've certainly worked great in my opinion.
I used them to do some winter canyoneering down in southern Utah in a little canyon called Hidden Haven. I've been through this canyon in the winter before without crampons and so I do have that experience to compare them to.
The hike in to the top of the waterfall is semi-arduous and can take anywhere from 1-2 hours depending on your confidence in the sketchy climb up. There was about 2-2 1/2 feet of fresh powder on the flatter parts of the hike/climb in and in other parts we were on completely exposed vertical rock faces and they kept me planted securely the whole time.
There are four rappels on your way out of the canyon, the first being about 90 feet of frozen waterfall with the others varying in length around 20-30 feet or so. All three rappels the crampons did precisely what they're designed to do.
I have yet to give them a try on actual ice climbing but my experience with them so far has been fantastic.
I've been ice climbing for 3 years now and have only once had a problem with these crampons. They fit nice and tight on the boots (if you size them correctly). Although another reviewer has mentioned that they have had trouble on vertical ice with the front points not being long enough, I have never had that impression. I love that the front points can be changed from mono to dual point or replaced when needed. The only time I ever had a problem with these is during a multi-pitch waterfall climb where the front bracket popped out and my right crampon came off halfway up the second pitch. Back on the ground though, it was super easy to put the crampon back together (had "broken" into 4 pieces upon hitting the ground) even with my frozen stubby fingers. Would I buy these again a second time? Absolutely.
Have used these for 4 seasons of east coast ice, they are easy to adjust, solid on the feet, and durable. Sharpen the front points once a season and they have been good to go. Not sure about other reviews stating these aren't for vertical ice, I mean, I don't get crazy out there, climb up to WI4, and these things do great. You can get a little more exposure of the front points if you move the toe bail back a hole. Bail is a little selective in the boots it fits, they are much more solid on the Nepal Evos than they my old Mad Rock ice boots. If they fit your boots, nothing better.
I have climbed WI grade 6 and up to TD Alpine mixed grounds on these crampons: they never failed to perform. Climbing now for over 30 years I never had a pair more versatile. Even on glacier strolls they are useful, since the anti bot system does its job. If you are a serious climber wanting only one pair of crampons, these are the ones to get, period.
Used them for alpine mixed climbing and ice climbing. They are great for mixed technical climbing, very durable.
The only disadvantage are too short front points. These become obvious in vertical ice, where the step is not secure enough.
Otherwise great all-around crampons, but not for serious ice climbing.
Wonder if Grivel offers longer front points?