Metolius Master Cam

Priced: $50.98 - $59.99 Rated:   - 5 stars out of 5 by 58 reviews.
Metolius Master Cam
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Color: Size 1
Available Colors:
Metolius Master Cam - The flexible cable and ultra-narrow head of the Metolius Master Cam is ideal for hard aid or free climbing. With a trigger assembly that is slides smoothly and an ergonomic thumb piece, the Master Cam provides precise control over placement and retraction. When top-stepping or stretching for hard-to-reach placements, the longer body of the Master Cam gives additional reach and the built-in Range Finder System provides critical placement feedback for those who need it. Colored the same as the rest of Metolius' cams. Every unit is tested to 5 kN and are CE and UIAA certified.

Fabric:

  • CNC machining and ultralight materials keep weight to a minimum
  • 13 mm (0.51"") Monster Sling webbing (36% Dyneema/64% nylon)

Fit:

  • Narrow head fits in small placements where dual-stem cams do not fit
  • Single-stem design allows cams to fit into tight spots; flexible cable reduces walking and enables placement in horizontal cracks

Sizing:

  • Size 1 Blue = 12.5 - 18mm / 8 kN / 68g
  • Ranger Finder tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size cam for the placement
  • Size 00 Gray = 8.5 - 12mm / 5 kN / 62g
  • Range Finder markings eliminate guess work: Green Zone for go, Yellow Zone for caution and Red Zone for stop!; Range Finder markings only apply to sizes #2 - #6
  • Size 6 Green = 32.5 - 48mm / 10 kN / 110g
  • Click sizing chart link for specifics on range, strength, and weight
  • Size 5 Black = 28 - 39.5mm / 10 kN / 99g
  • Size 2 Yellow = 15.5 - 22.5mm / 10 kN / 70g
  • Size 0 Purple = 10 - 15mm / 5 kN / 65g
  • Size 4 Red = 23.5 - 33.5mm / 10 kN / 90g
  • Get a wide range of placements from the versatile, single-stem design with an ultra-narrow head and a Range Finder that helps you to determine the right cam size for your placement
  • Size 3 Orange = 18.5 - 26.5mm / 10 kN / 82g

Webbing:

  • Rely on the ultra-strong and durable 13 mm Monster Sling webbing and tubing that are color-coded for easy identification

Manufactured:

  • Made in the USA

Features:

  • Cam stops add security to tipped-out placements
  • Long body provides excellent reach when top-stepping in aiders and stretching for hard-to-reach placements
  • The longer body affords additional reach when stretching for that hard-to-get placement
  • Greater holding power every single unit is tested to 5kN
  • Place your protection with ease thanks to the CNC milled cam-stops, the smooth trigger assembly and molded, ergonomic thumb piece
  • Hand built, inspected and individually tested to + its rated strength in Bend, Oregon
  • Thumb loop provides a high clip-in point for aid climbing
  • Ergonomic thumb piece creates excellent control while placing and removing cams
  • Optimized cam angle for more outward force, Machined cam stops
  • CE/UIAA certified
  • CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded cams
  • CE and UIAA certified for safety
  • 7075 T-6 aluminum
  • Narrow head enables secure placements in pin scars and small, uneven cracks
  • Molded thumb piece for control over over placements
  • Flexible stem won't lever your cam out of horizontal placements
  • Once in, the range finder indicates if your placement is good or warns of over-camming
  • Optimized cam angle for increased holding power
Rock/Creek Outfitters

The Master Cams by Metolius are their first single stemmed cam they have made due to all the different styles of cracks you can encounter when climbing.  Based on the idea that a single stemmed cam can fit better into awkward cracks and fissures than the U-shaped body and the flexible, single cable reduces leverage to minimize walking in certain funky placements. 
The Master Cam offers climbers a narrow head and flexy cable piece that is made especially for hard aid or free climbing, and its silky smooth trigger action allows for quick placements and removal.  The longer body affords additional reach when top-stepping or stretching for that hard-to-get placement, and the Range Finder on the cam lobes you get a quick look assessment to whether or not the piece will be effective in its placement.
Each cam is hand-built in Bend, Oregon and is thoroughly inspected and every unit is tested to 5 kN.  Master Cams are CE and UIAA certified.


Moosejaw

With the most versatile offering of cams on the planet, Ultralight Power Cams, TCUs, Offsets, Fat Cams and Supercams, why would Metolius add a single-stem cam to their line? The reason is that there is an infinite number of variables in the climbing environment: hard rock, soft rock, parallel cracks, flared cracks, etc . . . Each individual cam style excels at a certain set of variables. The Fat Cam's wide lobes greatly improve protection in soft rock while the TCU's narrow head widths greatly enhance placement versatility. The biggest advantages of the single-stem unit are: they will fit into certain placements better than the U-shaped body and the flexible, single cable reduces leverage to minimize walking in certain placements. They set out to make the finest single-stem unit we possibly could and the Master Cam is the result.


Mountain Gear

Metolius's Master Cam is just that - a master of cam technology. For hard aid or free climbing, this flexible, single stem unit with an ultra-narrow head width is ready for anything. Range Finder technology tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size for the placement.


Backcountry.com
Gear that goes in and stays in.

Metolius built the Master Cam with a flexible single-stem design and narrow head profile to get it into the smallest, weirdest pods and pin scars, and to give it purchase once it's in there. CNC-machined cam stops provide extra passive strength if this cam tips out once it's inside a crack, so you don't have to stress your placement when you're making the crux moves 20 feet above. Metolius also added a large thumb loop to give aid climbers a short clip-in point and help trad climbers fire in gear quickly when they need to.


Eastern Mountain Sports (EMS) (2000)
The Metolius Master Cam combines a nice, flexy cable with an ultra-narrow head for hard aid or free climbing. Spotless design includes a silky-smooth trigger assembly with an ergonomic thumb piece to provide precise control over placement and retraction. Winner of Climbing Magazine's 2008 Best New Gear Award.
REI

Whether climbing aid or free, you're sure to find the placement you need with the new Metolius Master Cams.

Made in 8 sizes; see specifications listed below for size = range / strength / weight.

Made in USA.


Campmor
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Average Price History: Price History
Review RatingNumber of Reviews
23
21
1
2
0
Activity:Climbing
Axles:single
Cam Lobes:4
Cam Stops:yes
Cams Included:1
Country of Origin:(U.S.A.) Bend. Oregon
Expansion range:8.5 - 48 millimeters
Material:7075 – T6 aluminum
Protection Color:Black
Range:1.28 - 1.89" / 32.5 - 48.0 mm
Range (mm):8.5-12 (Size 00); 10-15 (Size 0); 12.5-18 (Size 1); 15.5-22.5 (Size 2); 18.5-26.5 (Size 3); 23.5-33.5 (Size 4); 28-39.5 (Size 5); 32.5-48 (Size 6)
Recommended Use:trad climbing, aid climbing
Stem:single
Strength:5 - 10 kilonewtons
Strength (kN):5 (Size 00); 5 (Size 0); 8 (Size 1); 10 (Size 2); 10 (Size 3); 10 (Size 4); 10 (Size 5); 10 (Size 6)
Type:Active
Warranty:1 year
Weight:see sizing chart
Weight (Grams):98 g
Weight (g):62 (Size 00); 65 (Size 0); 68 (Size 1); 70 (Size 2); 82 (Size 3); 90 (Size 4); 99 (Size 5); 110 (Size 6)
Compare specifications to related products.

Similar Products:

Metolius Offset Master CamMetolius Offset Master Cam$50.98 - $59.95
Metolius Master Cam #2Metolius Master Cam #2$59.95
Metolius Master Cam #3Metolius Master Cam #3$59.95 - $59.99
Metolius Master Cam # 4Metolius Master Cam # 4$59.95

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Metolius

Metolius Master Cam Reviews:

Positive Reviews:

Pros and Cons

These are great cams and I prefer certain sizes over others...

To start, I have been using the blue and yellow master cams for a while now. I like the master cam at this small size because they seem a little more stable than the TCU and Power cam.

Once I reach the orange and red sizes I go back to the power cam. I like having four lobes and feel as though these sizes are stable enough without needing the master cam design.

Things get tricky at black and green. I just purchased these two master cams and am very excited about them. The smaller sized master cams are very comparable in flexibility to the power cams. After reaching the larger sizes though it's clear that the elongated single stem proves valuable. You can shake the bigger sizes back and forth and they wiggle nicely, that is not the case for other, stiffer, TCU and Power cam. I'm hoping this will result it long life and minimal walking in placements.

Other than that they are lighter than BD camalots (I have a full set of those) but heavier than the old metolius pieces. The kevlar is great because it doesn't squeak and require lubrication like traditional cams do!

Altogether this is a great piece of gear and I would strongly recommend the:
Blue #1
Yellow #2
Black #5
Green #6
ACJ at REI on 12/12/2011

I picked up a set of these to complement my TCU's since I've grown accustomed to the metolius sizing and color coding. I never really liked the C3, and could never find aliens and I love how much cheaper these are and readily available.
I like sizes 3, 4 (orange & red) and use them as much as my C4's in the similar size. I absolutely love the 1, 2 (blue & yellow) as much as I like the same sizes in TCU. I would say 5 & 6 you probably don't need– but a few people have said very good things about them. I still use the TCU's and adding the master cam into the mix really rounded out my rack nicely. There are times when the TCU will fit better than the master cam and vice versa. I'm looking forward to picking up the 0, and 00 master cam in the future, oh and some of the offsets look great!
Overall I love the build quality, fit and finish. I had the action get a little gummy over time and I just cleaned them in warm water and a dab of soap, then a few drops of wax like any other metolius cam and they are smooth again. I never had problems with the kevlar trigger.

734232 at Backcountry.com on 06/26/2012

Great Product

Fantastic product on so many levels. They're extremely light on a rack which makes them great for multipitch routes, where you start to feel the weight by the latter pitches. Very flexible cams. The small lobes are fantastic when you have narrow placements, and even though they seem a little hairball at first, you learn to trust them after a few falls on them (Gotta love that orange). My only issues with this cam is that for some reason i struggle when it comes to cleaning them moreso then other brands. i find C4's so simple to remove, and sometimes i'm fiddling with these for a few minutes, trying to get em out. and secondly, the trigger is a little stiffer for me then on other brands. While this isn't a huge deal, i love the smoothness of a C4. Overall, durable, flexible, reliable. I would recommend trying out a friends if you can before buying them, just to make sure they suit you.
onTheRocks at REI on 05/05/2011

Pretty good, but...

Very nice cam with usual bomber Metolius quality. Sizes consistent with other Metolius cams, so that's a plus if you're used to their other gear. Flexible stem is handy.

My gripes are that one of mine became a fixed piece when a trigger wire (made of kevlar) became detached, and that the range finder can trick you into setting them a bit too tight (note that the green range exists all the way to when the cam lobes are completely bottomed out) if you're new to trad climbing. Other, more experienced types will probably be comfortable placing them without paying attention to the "range finder".

That said, they're a nice piece, and after reporting my loss to Metolius due to the trigger failure I had a new one sent to me right away, as there was an initial batch that was faulty. Since that incident, I've had no problem with them and I rely on them regularly.
Portlandclmbr at REI on 07/07/2008

excellent cam

the first master cam i bought was the #2 since the #2 tcu was a favorite part of my alpine rack. i was hoping the small amount of extra weight would be made up for with the stability of a 4 lobed cam.

when i first got the cam home and compared it to my other cams i was a little scared because of the narrow cam lobes.

the first time i placed the piece i was excited with how solid it felt. but the small lobes still freaked me out a bit. anyway, to make a long story short, i've taken a few falls on mastercams and i love them. they are lightweight, study and hold falls well.

i'd recommend these for free climbing over a tcu. yes, the tcu a bit lighter, but i thing the benefits far outweigh the small weight increase.
tsuyoshi at REI on 05/05/2009

A couple things of note:
-the stem cable seems to be the same gauge from the very smallest to the largest while the stem gets longer. The large cams tend to feel a bit floppy as a result (compared to C4 for example), but some folks think this flexibility will minimize the cam walking. These stems will flex more in the direction of crack length than a U-stem type cam, i.e. tcu.
-I like that the color scheme is consistent across metolius products, but find it unfortunate that my #3 Dragon and #5 Mastercam are slightly different sizes but the same color. First world problems.
Based on my first impressions of look and feel they appear to be pretty good cams. No falls on them yet though.

web at Backcountry.com on 08/12/2012

pleasantly surprised

My partner got these cams for our upcoming Wall and we've been practicing a lot with them. We wanted aliens but with some more reliability and durability... a close substitute!

These cams actually have a narrower head than the TCU's but have another lobe. However, the lobes are thinner than the TCU's so the surface area on the rock is pretty similar. While these may be the closest things out there to aliens, i gotta say that The Master Cam still doesn't equal up to an Alien... Close though...

They're great in the smaller sizes (00-2), but for the larger sizes (if you're not concerned about needing a narrow head) i'd go with Camalots.
EvanWish at Mountain Gear on 06/06/2010

I can't attest to all sizes since I only have the 00, but it is an excellent piece of gear. The only thing I would consider getting for such a small size. C3's are good, but they have a double stem which is absurd for a cam that is supposed to fit in the smallest and hardest to protect cracks. the single stem is much more versatile. It won't walk at all and it feels solid. haven't fallen on one so i can't say much about it's durability. the biggest downside i have found is that it is pretty easy to get stuck, but that is likely to happen with any very small cam.

bmy4642045 at Backcountry.com on 05/28/2012

great pro

although i am new to climbing in the last 3 months i have gone out every weekend and put some serious routes under my belt. After doing my first couple of trad leads and finding that i didnt have anything for smaller finger cracks i decided to get the Master Cam set, I dont regret that one bit i took them out and used them on my first 700 foot 6 pitch trad lead and they were great! gave me the security i needed to keep climbing, next on my list is the Metolious Offset set to further supplement my rack.
New Climbing Junkie at Rock/Creek Outfitters on 12/12/2011

The Master cam is always my go to small cam of choice, especially once the old CCH aliens became scarce. I find the #00 (gray) to #3 (orange) to be the most useful sizes. Particularly the #1 and #2 get placed all the time. Even the #0 and #00 are confidence inspiring when in a good placement. The #3 starts to overlap with other common cams, like the .5 BD Camalot, but is useful due to being a different shape. The oval shaped loop that makes up the thumb catch is great for clipping in short when aid climbing.

Peter Gram at Backcountry.com on 05/08/2012

Negative Reviews:

Cams bind up after use

These are good in the smaller sizes (up to a 2) but I've found after just a few months of use they start to bind up pretty good in the 3-6 sizes. Lubing them helps but you have to do it a lot and the binding I think is more due to a floppy stem. There's nothing more frustrating than being a little pumped and not being able to squeeze the cam down easily and get it placed. They can get really stiff to retract!

I was not that impressed since there are better single stem options out there.
Garr at REI on 04/04/2011

I have owned a set for along time now, and I consistently do not use them. They frequently get clogged with dirt with the tight fittings, meaning frequent cleaning for them to work right. The stem and its protective coating get pretty beat up quickly and especially after falls, the cams stop working well. BD cams definitely stand up to the test of time way better.

Evan Stevens at Backcountry.com on 11/01/2012

Neutral Reviews:

Mixed Feelings

I've been climbing full time for about 6 years now and was stoked when these new cams were released. I picked up a full set and originally raved about them but have calmed since getting to know their quirks.

The smaller sizes are awesome. I love the Blue and Yellow for sure. They provide great, stable, four cam design in the small sizes (never tried the purple or grey) and I would definitely recommend these two.

The Medium sizes are decent. I think that Orange, Red, and Black are nice but somewhat unnecessary. Those sizes are stable as powercams and also lighter as power cams. That being said, if you like the mastercam design more... then go with them.

The only master cam I would strongly recommend against is the green. At first I bought it excited about it's wiggly stem. I thought this would be nice for a variety of reasons but was unexpectedly proven wrong. I groaned repeatedly when placing this cam because it routinely caused problems. Perhaps mine was faulty, but when I would pull the trigger it would fold the cam sideways into an L shape instead of retracting the cam lobes about 30% of the time.

So, for the most part I would argue they are a nice addition to the cam collection and made by an amazing company (Metolius). The small sizes can't be beat, the middle are decent, just play with the green a bit before you commit!
ACJ at REI on 04/04/2012