Thanks to their offset cam lobes and ultra-narrow head design, Metolius Master Cams fit securely in places where other cams don't stand a chance. The ability for these cams to fit in shallow, flaring cracks makes them a top pick for cutting-edge free trad lines and aid climbs alike. Metolius added a large thumb loop to make placements easier and provide a high clip-in point when you're stretching for the next aid placement. Metolius also added cam stops to provide an extra level of security in case the lobes get tipped out as you climb above your gear.
The Metolius Offset Master Cams are composed of two small lobes and two larger lobes to fit flared placements and pin scars and a flexible, single stem unit with an ultra-narrow head width for hard aid or free climbing. The Range Finder tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size cam for the placement. Optimized cam angle for more outward force for added protection.
The Offset Master Cam by Metolius will add an extra level of versatility that an ordinary cam just cannot match. This cam has two small lobes and two larger lobes that provide a greater range of fits, definitely a must have.
Metolius Offset Master cams are designed to fit where other cams won't. So, the next time you come upon a pin scar or flaring crack, place one of these and keep climbing.
Made in 6 sizes; see specifications listed below for size = range / strength / weight.
Made in USA.
|6 Sizes:||#00/0 -#4/5|
|Expansion range:||8.6 - 39.5 millimeters|
|Material:||7075 – T6 aluminum|
|Range:||1.09 - 1.56" / 28.0 - 39.5 mm|
|Strength:||5 - 10 kilonewtons|
|Weight:||00/0 - 2.2 oz: Gray/Purple|
|Metolius Master Cam||$47.94 - $59.99|
|Metolius Offset Master Cam 3/4||$59.95|
|Metolius Offset Master Cam 2/3||$59.95|
|Metolius Offset Master Cam - Package||$323.69|
I climb on southeastern sandstone A LOT and never leave the ground on a trad route without at least a few, especially the blue/purp! I have also used them with great success in Pakistan, Venezuela and Canada.
Why you want these:
Lets face it, unless you only climb at Indian creek (and even there) your gonna need to protect in a flare at some point. The narrow cam head and single stem fit tight spots perfectly. Almost every partner I have climbed with in the last few year has purchased at least the first four sizes after sampling the ones on my rack.
I have beat the ever living crap out of these using them in horizontal placements. They hold up, don't shy away because of the corded trigger wire; it's burly and Metolius will replace it if you manage to break it.
The lightest offset cam available...period!
Trust me, your a$$ is worth the comparably low cost of owning a set.
I just purchased a set of these 0/1, 1/2, 2/3, and used them for a week in Zion NP. I can't say enough about how well these cams work in pin scarred placements. I had a full set of DMM offset stoppers to compliment these offset cams. We climbed the classic trade route 'Moonlight Buttress 5.8 C1' which is endless 1/4" to 1/2" cracks. These cams became the crutch of our aid rack. We would simply keep a few on each aider, and drop in stoppers for pro as we plugged and chugged our way up the endless crack system. Like I said before, Nothing better for the job!
These little gems are an aid climbers dream. They slot perfectly into pin scars and remove the sketch factor from formerly dicey placements. If you climb in Yosemite or any place with flaring cracks these are a must! I have found that the 4 smallest sizes 00/0 - 2/3 get the most use. These are so useful that they have found a permanent place on my standard granite rack. Picture from the headwall of Desert Shield, C3, Zion. I was super grateful for the offsets on the last two pitches.
I was really excited when these cams hit the market, since the CCH offsets had become pretty much impossible to find. I picked up a #00/0 through a #2/3, with the middle two sizes of this range being the most useful. Having the offset cam on your rack can make a pin scar placement secure, or get you past an otherwise sketchy placement with a standard cam. The oval shaped thumb loop works great for clipping in short when aid climbing too.
And probably more reliable!
I've been using these for awhile now - I have the 0/1 and 1/2
I can generally find a great placement for these even when an offset isn't necessary. I recommend buying one either to fill a gap in your "normal" rack or to double up on a similar sizes. Like the offset aliens, the master cam works in Pin scars and other weird pockets that other cams just can't. If you climb on California Granite, they are a must.
It's a bomber pro for irregular cracks. In Yosemite and South Lake Tahoe area the 4 small pieces (gray/purple to yellow/orange) almost always fit better then regular (non-offset) cams.
The two biggest pieces are not so useful - heavy lobes and soft stem makes them hard to place as they wear a little bit.
If you climb in Yosemite or South Lake Tahoe area you want to have 4 smallest offset cams for sure. A good alternative is Fixe offset aliens.
After the dismal failure of CCH going under due to cams falling apart, these stepped in to take over as my go to aid pieces for flaring placements. I do most of my aid in Zion now so the harder metal isn't too much of a concern for me. I have also used these in Yosemite grantite and not found a significant amount of slippage due to harder metal. I would say the most useful are 0/1, 1/2, 2/3
According to the size chart, you could get three Alien Offsets (used of course), that cover the six cams in the Metolius chart. If that's the case wouldn't it mean that the Aliens have a bigger head and as such would be harder! to place? Confusing as you look at the popularity of the old Aliens. Or, was that range what made them popular? If so, why doesn't someone else duplicate them. I see that Fixe is doing the standard size's but no offsets... I wouldn't pay what their asking anyway, but I did call and they don't build the offsets...go figure!