Mountain Hardwear Beryllium Jacket

I went back and forth between the ARC'TERYX Theta AR, OR Mentor and this jacket for a few weeks. I ended up going with the Beryllium mainly because I got a good deal on it. Overall I like the jacket a lot and it will suit my demands for the next couple years (14er Mountaineering, US Alpine Climbing, Ski Touring, PNW Backpacking, everyday abuse). The fit is good and as expected, I'm 6'0 155 skinny-med build. I wear a MED is every brand of outdoor clothing and the size medium fits great, sleeves are a little long (even for overhead reaching, climbing) but it's not to bad and I see this with almost all shells. I love the hood, helmet compatible, one hand drawchord works awesome. Jacket has a drawchord about a quarter the way up the bottom of the jacket (similar to where a snowskirt would be), I'm not exactly sure the idea behind that but I guess while alpine/rock climbing you could make it tight and leave the bottom drawchord loose so that it lays over your harness. I played around with it and don’t see the jacket gaining much from it. The only other thing I really don't like about this jacket is the double flap front zip. Waterproof zippers have proven their durability over the years and everyone has moved them so I'm a little confused why Mtn Hrdwr went with the old school design in that area. I also would have liked to see some reinforced material on shoulders/sleeves. Used the jacket in the rain and in heavy snow and it performs excellent as you would expect; GORE TEX PRO is the best out there. I think the Theta AR and Mentor are burlier jackets overall and for the same price I would pick one of the other mentioned. That being said this is a great jacket that I anticipate getting years of good use out of, I have no concerns using it on my winter mountaineering trips!

If Berrylium were an ice-cream flavour - it'd be the sweetest thing to smother your insides. But it's not - so the sweetest thing to do is get one on your back. I'm 5'9" 175#, the small size fits me great for ALPINE (such awesome stuff) summer in the super fickle maritime alps of New Zealand. Throw a solid over-sized belay jacket on to prevent chill'n whilst chill'n in the Fall/Winter, and you'll be set (comfortably, not frozen) Yes, it is totally windproof and waterproof. Yes, the hood comfortably fits the helmets I use whilst wearing a head lamp: Petzl Meteor and Elios, BD Half Dome. The chest zips are not confused when wearing my MH Supernatural and Direttissima backpacks. The sleeves are in fact long enough for high-sticking reaches on rock for desperate pull-down glory. Throw long gauntlet gloves on your mitts for quality ice time. I went the red jacket because red is faster. However, given the great look of this jacket, smash it with mud first if you want to be taken seriously in the outdoors.

Have since added ice climbing and a 6 day Wapta Icefield traverse to this jacket's resume, and can now speak to how it performs during its intended usage: Exceptional! My early durability concerns have proven unfounded, as I have beat this thing senseless this winter, crashing into trees, catching it on crampon spikes (although not razor sharp ones), stuffing it into packs beside gouged shovel blades - it holds up. It is now a filthy brown rather than the bright orange at time of purchase (stains easily), but keeps me just as dry as ever. It dries out very quickly from body heat or when hanging in the hut/tent. The hood is beautiful - the one draw string system works fabulously, the brim stiffener actually keeps water away from your face while maintaining good visibility, and it rolls away snugly. The pockets are great, and the Micro-Grid liner is comfortable. As stated in my previous review, the only complaint is that the "roomy all-mountain cut" is not quite as roomy as expected. A fantastic piece of gear.

I bought this coat being unable to find one in a retail store to try it on for fit first. After trying on similar style Arc'Teryx coats, I decided small was the size for me - but the Beryllium is cut noticeably smaller than the A'T small, especially in the sleeves. Kept the small, but could've done with a medium. This coat has a beautifully designed hood, has kept me dry and snow free in over 25 days at Whistler this winter, as well as walking the dog for hours in heavy downpour in Squamish, and sweaty, heavy touring days. The only thing I would say is if you're primarily buying this shell for resort skiing, you might want a heavier one. Gets quite chilly in wind or on the chairlift, and small cut does not allow me to wear a down layer underneat.

As a replacement to my Arc'Teryx Theta AR jacket, the Beryllium seems capable to holding its own. What I cannot understand is why the main zipper is not water tight like all the others found on the jacket? If it was I definitely would have given it a 5 star rating. The flap with it's velcro tabs does protect the zipper, but, you would think that a water tight zipper would have been a better option. On a positive note, the Gore Tex Pro shell fabric seems less restrictive than the Theta. And after a good old fashion downpour, I was definitely warm and dry. Plenty of room of layering and the 2 front chest pockets are big enough for a Garmin 60CSX and the zipper tabs are really nice compared to the "string loops" found on the Theta.

This jacket preforms perfectly for what it was intended for...mountaineering, not skiing or boarding, really if your riding the lifts you don't need a $400 hardshell. Lightweight and packable yet surprisingly durable. Really who wants to haul a two pound "more durable" hardshell 20 miles to the mountain before putting it on, I most certainly don't. You can't go fast without going light. It keeps winter at bay, whether its heavy spring snow or windblown powder. Since I wear my down summit parka over it (as you should), its a bit baggy but fits decent compared to other brands. If only they made hardshells in talls...Pro-shell is the best Gore-tex yet, by leaps and bounds. Being a dirtbag climber it was a bit expensive, but better than any other hardshell out there for year-round climbing in the North Cascades.

I gave my MH Beryllium a good workout this week in Breckenridge and Beaver Creek. We expected warm spring skiing and got pounded with snow and wind. The jacket performed well and I had one of the best powder days of my life in it. I like this jacked, but as a skier I think I would have been better with the MH Vertical. I missed having a powder skirt. I skied comfortably in the hood during the toughest conditions, however it’s not totally helmet compatible I couldn’t zip the jacket fully. Also, the top of the zipper did cause me some chin irritation. I think that jackets with an offset zipper are a better design. My take, I really like the jacket a lot. I just don’t love it like I should for a $475 jacket.

The Beryillium is intended to be more of a climbing jacket, but I love it for backcountry skiing as it has perfect pockets, a nice set of features (without having too many) and the material is excellent. It has a nice loose fit which works well for hiking and helps make it breathable. I was skeptical at first about the lightweight fabric (Pro Shell), but am now sold on it - it breathes well and is durable. The hood is also very well designed and can be used with a helmet or folded back for use with a regular hat.

My Beryllium was a very good investment. I'm 5'9" and 42" chest so went with the large. It fits great, no moisture and because the wind can't cut it i need only one light fleece to stay warm. Lots of movement in arms for reaching. Lots of room in the hood for a helmet and tucks away nice to keep wind off my neck. Super light, like Kevlar in many ways. I love it! Bombproof!

Wore it last season in the French Alps. Packs small, keeps you dry, can wear the hood with a Helmet (Grivel), easy access to the pockets when wearing a harness or day sac, can vent off. The fit is also good as you can wear multi layers and it doesn't feel too tight. Great Jacket!!!