Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device

Priced: $22.49 - $29.95 Rated:   - 5 stars out of 5 by 18 reviews.
Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device
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Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device - Black Diamond's most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body. Black Diamond also enlarged the auto-block release hole to accept a small carabiner. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rappelling, and the device's guide mode lets you belay one or two seconding climbers off an anchor.
Black Diamond ATC Belay Device Features: Multiple friction modes for belay and rappelMachined windows through device for weight savingsGuide mode works with one or two climbers ascending or descendingAuto-block release hole enlarged to accept a small carabinerDurable cable holds its shape and resists getting caught between ropesHandles ropes from 7.7 mm to 11 mmStyle number BD620055


  • Variable friction design gives great control with many rope diameters; ATC-Guide can handle ropes sizes from 7.7 - 11mm in diameter


  • Made from durable, hot-forged anodized 7075-T6 aluminum


  • High-friction grooves provide great hold and stopping power
  • Double-slot design allows you to feed single or double ropes smoothly without kinking the rope
  • Machined windows through the device make it lighter than the original ATC-Guide belay device
  • Guide mode lets you belay one or two seconding climbers off an anchor
  • 3.1 oz (88 grams)
  • ATC-Guide can be set up as an auto-block device when you're belaying 1 or 2 seconding climbers
  • Durable cable holds its shape and resists getting tangled
  • Machined windows through device for weight savings.
  • Multiple friction modes for belay and rappel.
  • Guide mode works with one or two climbers ascending and descending
  • Handles ropes from 7.7 to 11 mm
  • Dependable and smooth operation
  • Auto-block release hole lets you use a carabiner or a piece of cord to release the device when loaded so you can lower a seconding climber
  • Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rappelling

The versatile Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay device offers complete belay and rappel functions and can be used with a variety of rope sizes.


Mountain Gear
All of the same strength and dependability, just as versatile, and now lighter than ever, Black Diamond’s ATC-Guide carabiner removes unnecessary material with machined windows in the side of the device – with no effect on overall strength.
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Review RatingNumber of Reviews
Average weight - metric:88 grams
Fits rope sizes:7.7mm - 11mm, single/double
Material:Anodized aluminum
Suitable for belaying:Yes
Suitable for rappelling:Yes
Weight:3.1 oz. (88g).
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Subcategories of Belay & Ascend:

Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device Reviews:

Positive Reviews:

A must for Climbers

I climb on average 3 times a week both indoor and outdoor. This is my favorite Belaying/ Rappelling Device. I have this for some time and it has great braking power. This is great and a must for multi-pitch routes allowing you to do double rope rappel. There are similar devices a little lighter by a few grams however they are a little more expensive. At the time I purchased this it was the best and lightest device with as much utilities. This device is great for belaying lead climber when you must give rope very quickly. The only Con is that on project routes or belaying new climbers is that you must hold the hanging rope the entire time for climbs like that I prefer the Petzl Grigri however it is a lot more expensive
Booshway at REI on 08/08/2011

love this thing!!!

I started using the guide two years ago and it is now a piece of gear that is always with me climbing and watching TV.(i couldn't resist) I've used it ice climbing with frozen ropes and summer rock and alpine climbing. Belaying two up at the same time is a great and invaluable time saver. The auto-block function is great for hands free work while your second is cleaning a piece of gear. One problem with the guide is that if your belaying two up and climber one requests slake. there is noway to just give climber one slake, you end up giving it to both climbers. Accidents have happened this way.
AL at Mountain Gear on 08/08/2013

Everything the ATC has and then some

The ATC is the gold standard of tube style belay devices. The ATC Guide adds additional friction ridges, like the ATC XP and Petzl Reverso, and includes an auto-block for guide work. The ATC Guide, like any tube style belay device, is easy to learn and simple to use. Using the ATC in guide modes is only minorly more complicated then using it normally. Overall if you only take one belay device with you, the ATC Guide can handle 99% of the things you need it do.
Jenrick at REI on 06/06/2011

The benchmark

Everything you loved about the old BD ATC-Guide in a lighter package. Immediately when I saw this, I knew I had to get it. Saves a few grams on the rack. Still autoblocks, still has friction teeth. Still sticks a little when pulling rope through, but I'm so like, omg, totally over it now, what belay device doesn't (the sucky ones with less friction, that's what).
ROCKofGLOVE at REI on 04/04/2011
I use the ATC-Guide in trad rock climbing for belaying a second from the top, or for belaying from the bottom. I have a regular ATC but once I started belaying seconds I needed an ATC that would allow doing it. I am very satisfied with the ATC-guide. Only the Petzl Reverso compares to this one, but I like Black Diamond way more.
Multi-sports at on 03/13/2013
Works as it is supposed to. Got into sport climbing and wanted something that was easy to use to belay someone up to me. Haven't had any problem as far as durability, or the sharp edges others seem to experience. I have not used it a ton, but enough to feel comfortable using it.
The outdoor enthusiast at on 03/13/2013

The best I have used

This device is the best you could ask for for the price, ie. $7 cheaper than the petzl reverso 3.

I like the positioning of the carabiner attachment ring better than the petzl also. it allows for easier rotation of the device to get out of auto lock.
soitgoes. at REI on 03/03/2011

A must have product

Great for a veriety of uses. Dont buy the basic model, this is the one you want unless you're a rare climber or really trying to save money but if you're gonna climb, rapel, multipitch, rescue, it'll do it all. Great product and something that all climbers should own.
BE22ER at REI on 06/06/2012

Much better than standard belay device

Found this device quite useful both indoors and outdoors. Upgraded from a standard ATC device and found the extra friction to be much more useful in both belaying and rappelling outdoors.
Worldwithin at REI on 01/01/2014

Good buy

Great belay divice, definatly worth it to get this rather than the normal ATC. May be more, but as you get better you want the best.
DaPilgrim at REI on 03/03/2013

Neutral Reviews:

Black Diamond ATC Guide

The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is a fairly sturdy belay device that is able to be used in "Guide" mode, enabling ease of belaying from the top of multi-pitch climbs.

I owned the Petzl Reverso 4 before this device and decided to try the Black Diamond out after my Reverso wore through. Both devices are essentially the same except that the Reverso is $5 more expensive and marginally lighter.

The Black Diamond functions perfectly for standard belay procedures. The friction teeth work well with ropes 10.1 mm or larger. Smaller ropes will work fine but will be similar to a standard non-toothed aperture device.

In "guide-mode," the Black Diamond was difficult to use with a 10.1mm rope. Though the auto-block was solid, releasing slack was more difficult than that of the Petzl Reverso. In many cases, this proved frustrating and annoying on multipitch climbs.

If you are looking for a solid belay device for sport climbs and perhaps the occasional multi-pitch, this device will work just fine. However, if do climb a lot of multipitch, I'd recommend you look to the Petzl Reverso.
yellowxc at REI on 04/04/2013


I bought this device at the beginning of the year... January 2012. I was going through gear in November and noticed that the device was getting very sharp edges right in the back where the rope touches. This was concerning as I have probably used it less than 200 full days. I multi pitched a decent amount this summer- 20-30 routes, but the rest were Single Pitch or indoor. BD used to be my go to brand but recently gear has just seemed not as impressive. The harness I have as well has caused me concern as it seemed to fray on the belay loop faster than older models. I would go with the Petzl Reverso. Seems to last longer.
Mharon47 at REI on 12/12/2012

buy the Petzl version

Works; gives more holding power than a ATC, which I've used for about ten years.

The problem is that the device has sharp edges that catch the rope when pulling in or feeding out slack. The Petzl equivalent is smoother and nicer to use, and works as well in auto-block mode.
Paul B at REI on 09/09/2012