Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device

Priced: $14.99 - $19.99 Rated:   - 5 stars out of 5 by 28 reviews.
Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device
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Color: Mocha
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Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device - Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Rappel Device - The ATC-XP Climbing Belay/Rappel Device by Black Diamond is the perfect climbing companion whether you are on mountaineering routes or in snow and ice conditions. Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to updated construction and machined windows through the body, the ATC-XP is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. Offering two use modes makes it doubly handy on the cliff, the high-friction mode offers 3 times greater hold and stopping power than regular-friction mode and the durable cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up between ropes. When you want great hold and stopping power while you are chasing your dreams, you want the ATC-XP Climbing Belay/Rappel Device by Black Diamond


  • Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body
  • Hot-forged construction


  • 2.3 oz (64 grams)
  • High-friction mode offers 3 times greater hold and stopping power than regular friction mode
  • Machined window through the body lightens up the device; ATC-XP weighs 64g
  • Black Diamond ATC-XP belay device accepts ropes from 7.7 to 11mm in diameter, making it suitable for everything from sport cragging to ice climbing
  • Versatile design accepts ropes from 7.7 to 11 mm
  • Design reduces rope kinking
  • Available for order by individual color
  • Durable cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up between ropes
  • Machined windows through device for weight savings
Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay / Rappel Device Features.

Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay / Rappel Device.
Get ready for great climbing with this Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay / Rappel Device. This device is one of the best accessories that you can take with you on all your climbing adventures, thanks to its superior performance. This device features a high-friction mode that gives you 3 times more holding power and stopping power than regular-friction mode, ensuring the force you require when lowering your friend or being lowered yourself. Its hot-forged construction makes it very tough and durable so that it lasts for many years to come. It has machined windows so that it is very light. And it has intended ropes that measure from 7.7 mm. to 11 mm, to avoid from getting caught between your ropes. So that there are no accidents and you remain safe. Plus, it comes in various great colors. It is time to enjoy all your climbing outings with this Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay / Rappel Device.
This product can only be shipped to U.S. addresses.

Key Features.

The Black Diamond ATC-XP is an updated version of the belay device that sets all standard for rock climbing and mountaineering. The XP Version has 2 friction modes - a "standard" mode that works similarly to the classic ATC, and a "high friction" mode for extra stopping power. The geometric, fluid design of this belay device will not kink your rope or jam while the machined windows save weight.

FEATURES of the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay/Rappel Device.
SPECIFICATIONS of the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay/Rappel Device.
Get the full functionality of the finest crag gear without the unnecessary bells and whistles. The Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device demonstrates a commitment to simplicity and utility, which at least in part explains why it won Climbing Magazine's Editor's Choice Award. Capable of both high-friction and regular friction modes, the ATC-XP accommodates a wide range of rope diameters.


The new Black Diamond ATC-XP belay device offers the same great hold and stopping power as the original version, only it's now 30% lighter.


Mountain Gear
The ATC XP from Black Diamond is a tried and true belay device that is easy to use and has many useful features.
With a smooth side and a notched friction side, the ACT-XP has multiple friction modes to choose from when you're belaying or rappeling. The ATC-XP's grooved high-friction mode offers three times greater hold and stopping power, while its geometric, fluid design reduces rope kinks when lowering your partner. And with its wide range of rope compatibility (from 7.7 mm to 11 mm), the ATC-XP is perfect for everything from sport cragging to alpine ice.
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Average Price History: Price History
Review RatingNumber of Reviews
Fits Rope Diameters:7.7mm - 11mm, single/double
Fits rope sizes:7.7mm - 11mm, single/double
Suitable for belaying:Yes
Suitable for rappelling:Yes
Weight:2.3 oz / 64 g
Weight (Grams):64 g
Compare specifications to related products.

Subcategories of Belay & Ascend:

Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device Reviews:

Positive Reviews:

Wether you prefer ATCs or grigri's this is still a must, especially if you ever need to rappel after a climb. In my opinion I also think if you don't know how to use an ATC you shouldn't be using grigri to begin with because this teaches the basics and doesn't give people a chance to get sloppy with their belay technique. grigris are nice for belaying someone working on a project but for easy warmups and gimmes the ATC-XP is easy to work with, smooth and accommodates all size ropes.
As far as the actual ATC-XP, it's an ATC, not much to say. I like the colors and it works like an ATC-XP should. I've never heard of one of these failing unless it was human error.
This specific ATC is nice for sport or Toprope as opposed to the ATC guide which can be used for directionals on multipitch and the normal ATC which is good for nothing as it wears down and gets sharp rather quickly.

david graham at on 12/12/2013

I typically use a Grigri for belay; but, always have an ATC for back-up or for setting up multiple routes. I always use an ATC to clean since it does so well for abseiling.
An ATC is an inexpensive piece of gear that everyone should have. The XP version does what the original does with a friction mode. The friction mode does work noticeably better at holding.
Classic quality product. everyone should have an ATC -in which case you should now consider the ATC-XP. If you multi-pitch, then look at the ATC-Guide.
The BD Gridlock biner is a great match for an ATC. Crossloading is something I usually only noticed while belaying a lead climber with an ATC. The Gridlock eliminates crossloading. ATC-XP + Gridlock = :)

shaun Moyes at on 09/10/2013
When I first got this ATC, I went straight to the high friction side figuring that it would keep me safer and prevent any slips while rappelling and belaying. The thought that those extra grippers were backing up my inexperienced hands was great. In reality, I could barely rappel with the extra friction and provided some pretty bumpy belays as I tried to feed rope over the bumps. Switching to the standard side fixed both of those problems and now I love using it. I think my troubles came more from inexperience than product design, and now that I am used to it, I am happy with my ATC.
Katherine at on 03/13/2013

I don't multi-pitch, so this makes for the perfect simple belay device. It has the nice addition of teeth on one side to provide extra friction, so you don't have to work as hard to hold the rope (and ultimately the climber) in place. Great for toproping and leading single-pitch.
However, this is not the best multi-pitch ATC, go for the guide, and I personally prefer to use a GriGri when belaying because it's just simpler and I like how it feels. However, this is much cheaper and lightweight, so it makes for a great belay device for all climbers.

John Robinson at on 10/17/2013

Worth the extra buck

Bought this in a store, and I wish this ATC belay device came in more color choices, but overall, I'm happy with my device. The ridges give me a little bit more confidence as a belayer since I weigh less than 110 lbs and I feel more in control lowering my climbing partner. I've only climbed indoors with this guy and most gyms that I go to have their own belay device (usually grigris) already hooked onto each route, but I'm still glad I have this device and would trust my life (and my climbing partner's life) with it!
abcdefghitran at REI on 10/10/2013

Black Diamond made a real solid belay device with the ATC-XP. You have good friction control when rappelling and lowering, smooth paying out rope. It works great on ropes thinner then 10mm. It is a little heavier the the ATC for the fact it's beefier and also has teeth.The friction slots offer three times greater hold and stopping power, according to BD. And it won Editor's Choice on OutdoorGearLab. The color options are also pretty rad. I just find this to be superior to most other belay devices along with being easy on the wallet.

Reed at on 11/15/2013
Last time I bought an ATC, there was just the original. It served me very well for many years. After using the XP, I am certain it will do just as well. The material is slick and solid, managing rope effortlessly. Though I thought the negative space in the metal was a gimmick, it offers a noticeable difference in the weight. It's extremely light. Also, those colors are straight up sexy! Great buy.
Ford at on 03/13/2013

My fiance and I have relied on this device for a long time. Now, I love the Gri Gri from Petzl, but if you're looking for the best ATC Guide on the market, this is my go to. We just bought one for my fiance and she is ecstatic about it. It's lightweight, durable, and wonderfully comfortable to use. I like the grooved side for thinner ropes. It catches everything.
Thanks Black Diamond!

Jonathan at on 12/08/2013

Versitile Beauty

You can use this device with or without the friction teeth, which makes rappeling easy. Belaying is the same, you can decide whether to use the friction teeth, but with the teeth you won't have to worry about any slipping. I love this device, especially after rappelling 300ft with no problems. I would reccomend this prodect for someone who rappells and/or climbs but is not into or ready for multipitch climbing.
Jordan at Rock/Creek Outfitters on 01/01/2013

I have used this ATC plenty of times and one bit of advice I can pass down to anyone who is going to buy this is when you are rap'n off an anchor don't use the high friction side... It will make your life much harder. Especially if you are repelling from a good distance. Over all no complaints, I would pick up one of these for any beginner.

Michael Denman at on 11/24/2013

Neutral Reviews:

would recomend buying thereverso or the ATC instead. youll save money if you have to buy it afterwards for multipitch climbing
it is also sometimes hard to feed rope fast with it. dont know why.

Patricio Berra at on 11/06/2013