Better than Evolv Elektras & Rockstars
This is my 3rd pair of climbing shoes and is definitely the last model/shoe that I'll need to try out. If the Evolv Rockstars or the Evolv Elektras fit you well & are comfortable, this will fit even better. I have long narrow feet, a longer 2nd toe, and more straight flat heel. I find that most other models outside of these 3 are painful to wear because they dig into my heel a bit too much.
vs Evolv Rockstars - My 1st pair - I wanted laced shoes so they would fit better but these turned out over time to not very breathable and got stinky very easily because of the synthetic. After 6 months, I had already had to get them resoled. I don't believe they sell this model anymore.
vs Evolv Elektras - My 2nd pair - I wanted to have a velcro pair for quick in & outs so I got these. These fit comfortably as well, but after a year, they started to get more and more loose and I had to tighten the velcro more and more. After a long/hot climb, my feet would start slipping inside because of sweat. They were not very breathable and were more prone to getting stinky.
La Sportiva Mythos - These have been my shoe for the last couple of years, I always shied away from this pair because I never wanted to spend more than $100, but the fit & the quality are definitely worth it. These overtime fit your feet to the T everywhere, even your arches and are super comfortable. Even after a year of indoor climbing they are no where near needing a resole. Because they are leather, they also don't stink, even if you don't spray them. Just leave them out in some open air & you're good to go. Found my perfect pair. From now on I'm just going to resole these forever and/or get a 2nd pair. Only downside is the color gets dirty quickly.
This is my first pair of shoes. I've had them roughly six months. I love them! I use them for everything: indoor, outdoor, top roping, bouldering.
The first time I put them on they felt wonderful. They are 1.5 sizes smaller than my street shoe. I was concerned about the discomfort of breaking them in. (I have rather sensitive feet and too small a shoe can hurt for days.) I wish I had gone that extra .5 size down. The shoes stretched/broke in within a few weeks. I lost the solid feel in the toe on nibs. I can still climb anything my skill level allows, but I can see the benefit of getting that smaller size. As they are now, I can keep my shoe on for the duration of my visit to the gym.
They don't do great for being upside down, but that could just be my skill level. They don't "hook" at the toe. I've been told they are more of a slab shoe.
As for wearing, I couldn't be happier. I'm not terribly hard on shoes. I don't dyno (yet) and I don't smear hard. I have noticed very little wear and the leather is holding up incredibly well.
Another benefit is that I don't have shoe funk. My feet sweat a lot, so that is a huge bonus!
My skill level and frequency of climbing is C1+ and working up to C2-, top roping is at a 5.9 working up to a 5.10. I am in the gym 1-4 times a week. I go outdoors occasionally.
Over six months, this (to me) is a lot of climbing. I've been told most shoes have about 6 months of life. These definitely have a lot of life left in them. I've known other climbers that have blown holes in their leather, worn holes in their toes, etc. in 6 weeks.
I'm very happy with La Sportiva and will continue to buy them. They are worth every penny!
Mythos have to be one of the top 5 climbing shoes on the market. They've certainly been the best shoes I've had to date, and they've fully lived up to their reputation as a great technical outdoor shoe. The first time I wore them I instantly went up a grade, which given I'm a bit of a gear sceptic, made me laugh at the time. I'd give the Mythos 5 stars, but you never know what's around the corner, and also, I'm just now breaking in a pair of Muira lace-ups, and they might be even better (time will tell). Whilst I'd acknowledge that there are perhaps better purely indoor shoes on the market, if you're after a technical shoe for both indoors and outdoors, and particularly outdoor multi-pitch routes, then Mythos are hard to beat. If you get the sizing right they will initially be uncomfortable as heck (like a full size too small), but once you've worn them in they'll fit like a glove and you'll be able to keep them on for long periods. If you've got broad feet they're also probably one of the better fitting shoes around (though the Muiras are also pretty good on this count). First time around I wore out the toes quicker than with the shoes I'd had previously (maybe due to poor technique), but the Mythos take multiple resoling, so this hasn't been a big deal (at resoling I opt for the thickest rand 'rubber' available).
Great fit without the pain!
You don't need to have painful feet to get a good fitting shoe. The lace up style lets you adjust the fit just right. While the lacing structure is a bit complicated and cumbersome, once you get the fit dialed in, you can leave it alone. I especially like the ability to adjust the ankle tighter for a more customized fit. The ankle doesn't ride too high on the achilles like lots of shoes do. I have a wider foot and wear a 7 1/2 street shoe and got the size 7. I was tempted to follow the advice of others and get a very tight fit by downsizing another 1/2 size and am SO glad I did not. I do have a tiny bit of toe length space, but with the ability to tighten the ankle and snug up the shoe laces I have experienced no foot slippage nor have I had any trouble staying on tiny holds. I can climb better without having to worry about painful feet.
I like these :)
I'm more of a mountain-climber than a rock climber so I use these shoes typically as part of a bigger adventure in an outdoor setting. I purchased .5 size smaller than the size chart indicates I should. (I wear an 8.5 and have a 39.5 in this shoe). This allows me to wear the shoe barefoot for indoor climbing (which I do occasionally) and with a thin sock outdoors- I can somewhat uncomfortably squish a cushioned hiking sock in there but will avoid this unless it's super cold. These are comfortable enough to not have sore feet after climbing, a nice form-fitting feel. They work well in both settings I use them in. I'm not a technical rock climber so can't speak to that use. They also, being flexible, fit nicely into my pack with my other gear. They are not cheap, but comfortable feet are critical on my adventures, so I invested. So far, I'm glad I didi.
Fit my weirdly-shaped feet, no blisters!
These shoes really break in to fit your feet! I have weird shaped feet; my toes are really far apart but I have relatively narrow heels, and my right foot is kind of wider.... These shoes worked better for me than the ones with the velcro straps, just because of the adjustability in width due to the laces. They are comfy and sticky, and you can tighten the laces around the ankles to secure them better. I got them wet once, and they shrunk a little bit, but stretched right back out to fit my feet. They have just enough give for if the front of your feet are kind of wide. For some reason, I feel like these don't smear as well as the ones I used before (these older model men's La Sportivas). They are a little pricey, but I expect they'll last me a while.
bestest climbing shoe ever
it took me 20 pairs of trial and error to find these almost 2 years ago, they have become my best friend. I have strange feet/toes and have hard time fitting into toe boxes of most climbing shoes without excruciating pain and when i found these i fell in love. I've climbed all day in them indoors and out and never feel the need to take them off, they are comfortable and versatile, haven't had trouble climbing anything in them, they stick well and edge even on tiny holds and smear great. They are like slippers once broken in and very adjustable, even after year and a half of wear they can be made as tight as needed. Everyone i know that owns them loves them. Highly recommend giving them a try.
Shoes that fit my feet!
I decided to take up climbing a few months ago, and these were the only non-aggressive shoes that fit my feet. My feet are very small, yet fairly wide. Despite the fact that my feet are wide, I was worried that these shoes would stretch too much for my wide feet, but 3 months in, so far so good. After a few days of climbing indoors, these shoes stretched to mold to my feet perfectly--I'd guess probably as comfortable of a climbing shoe as you can get. As others have mentioned, do order down a few sizes. I normally wear a 5-5.5 womens, and I have a size 33 in these shoes. If I had to do it again, I would probably get a 32.5.
Great all around shoes.
I actually purchased these shoes for my wife. These are her fourth pair of climbing shoes over the years and she couldn't be happier. We did some multipitch climbs this weekend in Joshua Tree and she was amazed by the comfort. The innovative lacing that goes around the back of the heel provides a customized fit. I don't believe they are as precise as some of the other more aggressive shoes, but I think having comfortable feet go a long ways towards good footwork and a more enjoyable climbing experience. The shoes are customizable enough to loosen for comfort on long moderate climbs and difficult descents, and cinch down tight for crux pitches and overhanging sport routes.
These are my second pair of climbing shoes, and they are perfect! I am just climbing V2s, so I'm definitely not a competitive climber, but I am serious about continuing to improve and climb more difficult routes. These shoes are very comfortable, yet snug enough so that my foot does not move around in the shoe. I usually wear a size 7.5 in regular shoes and the 37.5 in these are perfect (I tried 38, but it was too loose). I did not want a super tight fit because I wanted to still be comfortable wearing my shoes between climbs. When I get more serious about climbing, I'll probably want a half size smaller.