The Wallnuts from DMM have had their shape enhanced by adding a scoop to improve security in shallow placements.
DMM also color coded them to make size selection easier; the colors are compatible with other brands, so if you’re thinking of mixing and matching, or want to switch brands entirely you won’t have to get used to a new colour/size pattern.
|Country of Origin:||UK|
|Range:||5.5 - 11.8 mm|
|Weight:||0.5 oz / 15 g|
|Dmm Wallnuts Set||$47.66 - $104.95|
|Dmm Wallnuts Set #1-11||$104.95|
|Dmm Micro Wallnuts Set||$36.95|
I have led pitches on friends' BD stoppers as well as my Wallnuts. My general impression is that the complex shape of the Wallnuts (shallow cutouts on the wide sides and a slightly more pronounced curve) sometimes give you a better placement. I climb on featured, East Coast rock, and I especially notice that a small crystal or bump will sometimes seat nicely in the cutout and give you extra confidence that the piece won't walk. If you want the best, Wallnuts are it. The question is whether you feel the need for that slim advantage over cheaper options like the standard BD stoppers.
I have used nuts of all major brands on the market, and DMM Wallnuts are the best in their class. Tapered shape and groves allow reliable placements in variety of cracks and pokets where no other stoppers work. DMM simply sets the standard for all other manufacturers to follow based on performance, not on the dollar spent on advertisement. It's sad that their new anodization color pattern does not follow the rainbow order of colors. After creating such a great stopper, they are dropping the ball on the colors. What are they thinking about?
As the other reviews have stated, these nuts are shaped perfectly. When I lead with my friends' racks, their stoppers always seem to take extra fiddling to get around irregularities in the crack. The scalloping, the curve, the rounded edges--these nuts place fast, clean easily, and are simply the best I've ever used. They've even arrested a fall or two, which isn't surprising, but definitely inspires confidence. I've also got the Peenuts, which supplement these bad boys perfectly--and are invaluable for pin scars. DMM makes the best nuts--period.
Maybe it's because I have used these extensively but I find that I can place them quickly and securely. Also I have taken big lead falls on these and they have held (getting them out again after these falls has always been problematic though and I have had to leave a number of these... apologies to all for having left artifacts).
I really like my wallnuts. They seat really well in conventional nut placements and they fit especially well in spots with small rugosities. A good jerk sets them nice and tight. They are light. The anodizing matches Wild Country making for a great mixed set. The red wallnut is my go to piece. I place it every route. Climb on.
Easy to identify colors that match DMM cams and wild country cams/nuts/hexes. They feel very bomber but aren't to heard to remove. The shapes are great allowing you to take advantage of irregularities in the rock. The best I have ever used, expand the set by getting the bigger size wild country rocks!
These are my favorite every day use nuts. They bite great and seem to fit better than any other nuts i have. The smaller sizes are my favorite in these. I find myself going for those sometime on nearly every climb and they have held whipper after whipper.
Really useful shape, very versatile, very strong for the size and weight as compared to other brands they are very tough too. I also really like the fact that they are made in wales. Kind of not important but it makes me happy I really like the colors
dont really use the larger ones in the valley, but i have cams for those sizes. i place these all over. these are the only nuts i have and the only nuts we use even though my partner have wild country rocks, dont need them.
The Wallnuts are bomb proof. If fallen on, they can be a little tougher than other nuts to clean, but the piece of mind climbing above them are worth it. As with all the DMM products I've used, their quality is top of the line.