just ordered the new 5.10 blackwing in US 11.5. Here I thought the Evolv Shaman was the shoe for my foot, WRONG. These shoes fit me so much better in the heel and they're lighter. Having a smaller knuckle box area on the 5.10's will be better for smaller feet. ( I sometimes get my shamans stuck in small holes or can't establish my feet properly. I have not climbed with them yet only getting them today but just wearing them real quick I could tell they were much better for my foot. I have a wider upper foot being broad across the knuckles where the toes meet the foot itself and then medium length toes. My foot is slightly flatter but extremely petite from that point back with a very small heel that barely sticks out. These shoes out of all the shoes I have worn have fit my foot the best as of now. I may need to size down after trying them with climbing but I'll see.
Shoes I've worn
MadRock muygen US 12 decent fit but terrible shoe
5.10 team (neon blue) US 11.5 extremely painful fit and eventually gave up
5.10 Hornet US 12 Way to big on me
5.10 quantum US 10.5 fit but not my style, little to tight too
La Sportiva katana US 11.5 way to loose in the heel like all of them loose toes
La Sportiva testarossa US 10.5 fit in the toe extremely loose in the heel
Scarpa Instinct Slip-on US 11 meh, fit decent didnt like loose heel kinda and smaller toes
Scarpa Instinct Lace-up US11, same story but could adjust the arch of the foot by pulling the laces tighter in certain spots.
Evolv Shaman great in the toe box slightly loose heel ( have gone through 3 pairs and thought they were my shoes for my feet.
I'll update after climbing in them, hopefully they stay this snug only slightly painful but cozy tight, not to tight that i can't apply pressure and no loose room in the heel or toes. Finally found my shoe of choice for now.
Ordered these and already can tell that they're better.... Next shoe to try will be the new 5.10 VXi team.
Comparison to Jet 7's
I am primarily a gym rat. Climb v6+ indoors, v4-5 outdoors. I have a wide foot and go through 2-4 pairs of shoes annually.
I have been climbing in the Jet 7s for the past year or so and LOVE them. I was not happy to find out the Jets are going away, but you have to move on. I have a wide foot (read EE street shoe) but the fit of the Jet 7s and anazasis were good for my foot type. I wear a size 8 street shoe, size 8 Jet7 and Anasazi but went with the 8 1/2 Blackwing. Glad I did, the size is definately very tight. If you have a narrow foot you may be able to get away with this shoe being the same as street shoe size. I did a side by side comparison with my Jets and the Blackwings were a tad smaller than my Jets, even though it is a 1/2 size larger.
Just got my Blackwings last night and headed straight for the gym. The shoe went on great, the tounge and velcro construction let me get my foot in there. I had issues getting my foot into a Team Five Ten shoe because of the slipper design. The rubber is top of the line stealth, so it's awesome. I did some heavy heel hooks and the the heel did not slip. This heel feels like the Jet 7 heel, which was the first Five Ten heel I had that fit snuggly. I did some overhang toe hooks and it performed OK, not as good as the Jets. The toe sensitivity and edging was superior to the Jets.
This shoe is a high performance shoe. It is going to be uncomfortable. I love this shoe for those looking to do v4+ bouldering and I would not want to wear these on a long pitch sport climbing outdoors. I highly recommend these shoes.
Great shoe for steep sport or bouldering
I've been using these shoes for about 8 months now, and they are great. I primarily use these shoes for climbing on steep stuff, and the toe is great for grabbing onto the rock, especially on small stuff.
Different shoes fit differently on everyone. Also, there differerent shoes for different stles of climbs, and this is one of 3 shoes I use in my arsenal. I use these mostly on steep limestone in American Fork, or conglomerate rock at Maple Canyon.
My street size is 11.5, and I downsized these to 10.5. At first, I was concerned that these wouldn't fit my wide feet, but I would use a plastic bag to shoe horn my feet in slowly, and these shoes broke in perfectly to fit my feet.
The rubber has been green, but the last has shown wear on the puffy red part of the outside. Not a huge deal, but I can imagine more wear if someone isn't careful like I am.
I wish more shoe companies would use the same taco-stle velco for easy on/off of shoes. This is much simpler than slipper-style or lace, especially for those of us with high arches.
Good shoes, heel could be better
Pretty decent shoes for overhanging bouldering. I sized same as street, 10.5 US and dont think I could really benefit from going any smaller. (for more ref; 9 in Mocs, 27.5 true Mondo size)
They feel really tight when I first out them on but after 20mins they soften up and mold to my feet comfortably enough I can leave them on for up to about an hour in the gym just fine. I have low volume feet with a skinny ankle and most 5.10s never fit my foot right. The fit on these are miles better then the other Five Ten agressive shoes but I feel the fit could still be better on the heel. There is still pockets of dead space around the heel, fine for basic heel-hooks but not the most secure for desperate cranking.
I climb in the v5/6 range, for anything under that you are better off with a more comfortable and versatile shoe.
High Performance Boulder/Sport Shoe
These are the most aggressive pair of climbings shoes that i have worn. The shoe is design for high level shouldering,and sport climbing. If you are climbing V5/6+ or 5.11's then these shoes would work good for you. If not, I would recommend a pair of Anasazi instead.
These shoes took a while to break in because they are fully synthetic. But after the breakin period ( about 1 month, climbing 2 times a week at the gym) they became manageable to wear. Before i couldn't wear them for more than 10mins, but now i can keep them on for about 30 mins. The Velcro really helps in allowing you to remove and put them back on quickly.
Sizing, i had to size up 1 size from my street shoe. (9.5 street, 10.5 blackwing). But I also have wide foot.
I recommend this to any looking to get to the next higher level.
High Performance Bouldering/Sport Shoe
These are the most aggressive pair of climbings shoes that i have worn. The shoe is design for high level shouldering,and sport climbing. If you are climbing V5/6+ or 5.11's then these shoes would work good for you. If not, I would recommend a pair of Anasazi instead.
These shoes took a while to break in because they are fully synthetic. But after the breakin period ( about 1 month, climbing 2 times a week at the gym) they became manageable to wear. Before i couldn't wear them for more than 10mins, but now i can keep them on for about 30 mins. The Velcro really helps in allowing you to remove and put them back on quickly.
Sizing, i had to size up 1 size from my street shoe. (9.5 street, 10.5 blackwing). But I also have wide foot.
I recommend this to any looking to get to the next higher level.
This is, hands down, the best shoe for climbing edges on overhanging terrain out there. I mean, it's a dragon toe with a team heel and velcro. The heel just sucks your feet into the bottom of the shoe. The velcro is amazing for adjustment. This makes the shoe very adjustable to form to your feet. Not as adjustable and versatile as laces, but still pretty adjustable. The shoe is super aggressive! This is amazing for everything from vertical and slabby climbs to horizontal roofs. The only disadvantage of the downturn is the pain that it causes you. Make sure to take these off right when you're done climbing to put on sandals or some similar shoes. Also, the famous Five Ten stealth rubber is as sticky as ever.
The verdict- Great aggressive shoe for almost everything, but with the cost of pain, and, of course, lots of money.
dragon evolution
Fits just like my dragons but the heel is a little different, perhaps a small degree larger. The feel is more like a jet7 heel I think, although I am aware it is touted to be the same as the team heel. The closure system is great, very comfortable and lends itself well to quick on/off donning for bouldering sessions. Same agressive shape and feel of the dragons, and they are beautiful. The materials used are burly and this appears to be my favorite shoe by any company so far! They'll be excellent for ANYTHING overhung, my favorite style of climbing! I can not wait to destroy these in Bishop this fall!! I would suggest going with your street shoe size. I wear a 10.5-11 street shoe so I bought a 10.5 in these and it's a great fit.
nice, so far!
These shoes are sweet. They have a really nice soft lining, they are easy to get into, and they climb well--very downturned.
I find them to be longer and "skinnier" than the lace-up Dragons, which I had previously in the same size (11.5, my street is 12), so they fit my feet better--they seem to have about the same amount of total space, but they are not as "tall" if that makes sense, and allow the toes to remain curled but not be totally folded. Definitely preferable.
They climb really well--as good as the Dragons. I don't notice much of a difference in the heel, which is apparently like the Teams, but that's a good thing. Try them on if you can, and if they fit your feet well, they will make you happy.
Dragon with a velcro closure
I climb mostly limestone sport routes (5.11-.13) and boulder outside (V5-8)/ inside (V5-9). This shoe is my go-to-shoe for hard boulders and cruxy sport routes. The sizing is a little difficult to get at first (I wear an Anasazi VCS size 11, Mocc size 10, Project size 10.5, Testarossa 42.5) as I wear a 12 in the Blackwing. Smearing performance is not compromised and it's sensitivity is almost unparalleled. The heel fits very similar to the Team shoe, which is a major plus for those who hate Five Ten's traditional heel fit. I have no dead space in my heel. I would highly recommend this shoe to anyone that is looking for a competition-worthy shoe and seeking to better their skills.