Solid bouldering shoe
I have only used the product for 3 sessions now and it is already broken in perfectly. The first two times were pretty brutal, but it's normal to have discomfort in the beginning. I went with a 42.5 (US 9.5). I wear a 10-10.5 street shoe and climb in a pair of La Sportiva Mythos for routes that are a 42 (US 9). The size is now perfect in the toe (though not comfortable) and the heel. The only sizing issue is in the upper because the strap does not draw tight enough. This has not affected performance, but if the shoe continues to stretch it could in the future. The "beak" (for lack of a better term) on the toe makes sticking feet easier, especially when pitched back, but comes at the price of general discomfort. The rubber wrapped around the toe and heel provides awesome grip and hooking and will ultimately make the shoe more durable in the long run. Overall, I gave it a 4/5 due to the price (I didn't see anything more expensive). I purchased the shoe for bouldering, what it is intended for, but for almost $160 it would be nice to not have to own/carry a second pair for routes. Additionally, EMS needs to reconsider policy/practice on selling high end shoes in stores. None of the EMS stores around here (Philadelphia/Central PA area) carry the product and trying it on first is crucial. I was able to find a local gym that had a pair (used) in order to get an idea of size. In the end I lucked out size wise, but if you want to sell high end shoes you have to start making them available in stores. Any item where fit is of upmost importance should not be a web exclusive.
Stick to the walls
I boulder every other day at my local rock gym in these shoes, and couldn't be happier with my first climbing shoe purchase.
I bought these half a size too small (I'm a size 40 in comparable shoes like the Vibram Fivefingers, got these in a 39.5) and although they were uncomfortable for the first couple times I climbed, they stretched and fit perfectly after some good sessions.
I can wear these for a good hour and a half before I have to take them off for a little break. Surprisingly, they don't make my feet sweat! I have yet to see any real wear on the shoes, and the rubber is just as sticky as when I took them out of the box.
The only thing that may deter me from recommending these to a friend is if you know that you don't like the downturn the shoe has. This is not necessarily a con, just a reminder for people that have yet to wear a shoe like this. It is uncomfortable for me to walk on surfaces that don't have any give (concrete, wood) as my feet stay arched. If at all possible, try these shoes on before buying them.
With that said, the downturn in the shoe really helps you pull yourself towards the wall and helps you make those big reaches out of caves/roofs.
Best Engineered Climbing Shoe
There are a number of different selling points for this shoe. The downturned toe is created by a cup in the sole of the shoe. This eliminates the space created by curling toes in flat-bottomed shoes making the soution a comfortable, air-tight fit. In turn you get more pull (as opposed to just push) from your toes and your feet will cut less, expecially on overhanging routes.
The soft yellow rubber heel cup, at Tiva calls it the 'power platform', molds to your foot so the shoe never comes off. This does cause the shoe to stretch a considerable amount when being broken in. Ideally, you want to buy this shoe small enough that you can barely get your foot into it new. The soft arch will stretch and form to your foot. Unlike most shoes, these shoes will continue to stretch throughout their entire lifetime. Makes for a comfy warmup shoe once you go through the rand.
The rubber on these shoes is sticky, rather thick, and will typically last a long time. You do loose some sensitivity here. The rubber on the hell cup is not well suited for technical heel hooks on small holds. (more a consequence of shape than rubber selection)
THE Solution
I recently bought a second pair of these from Rock Creek after I split through the toe on the first pair. (The first pair lasted me 9 months of climbing 3-4 days a week indoors and several outdoor trips.) These shoes are nothing short of fantastic, albeit pricey. The fit is so perfect they make a sucking noise when I take them off/on. They are not very comfortable to walk in as they are very aggressive, but my feet never hurt or feel cramped while climbing. These are a dream for bouldering and allow me to feel confident putting weight on the tiniest holds. There is rubber on top of the foot which makes for great toe hooks/bat hangs, and the heel is also wrapped for confident heel hooks. The shoes are real leather which keeps odor to a minimum. (Unlike my STINKvolves, which smelled so bad my friends would make me strap them to the roof rack when driving home from the crag!)
For size comparison, I wear a men's 10 in loafers/dress shoes and a 42.5 (~9.5)in these. They were very difficult to put on at first but after a few uses they slide on without issue.
super technical
I tested these shoes out for only one week in my search to find a more aggressive than my FiveTen Rouges. The Solution is definitely an aggressive shoe with an extreme down turned and pointed toe. a fantastic feature if you're mostly bouldering on steep to overhang walls, cutting your feet will never happen again with the Solutions. for this reason alone, they're worthy of four stars.
The lack of rubber along the mid sole provides great flexibility to the shoe and helps to keep the overall weight of the shoe down. I think it actually helps strengthen your feet as well.
unfortunately the shoes didn't work out for me and here's why: the extreme downturn and the shape of my foot created a pocket of air between my heel and the heel cup, making them really annoying to wear.
otherwise a fairly comfy and powerful shoe that can really boost climbing performance.
A great climbing shoe.
Living in Michigan without great outdoor climbing nearby, I mostly use these at the gym. Like any shoe, they're not going to make you a great climber. You have to do that yourself...yada, yada. However, these shoes allow you to do the things that a great climber must know how to do without limitation. The heel cup is the most secure I've ever felt when heel-hooking. For getting your toe into a tight hold on an overhang, this shoe is fantastic. Smearing is still possible, but I would say it's not what these shoes are designed for. These are aggressive shoes and they will be uncomfortable at first. Buy them small because they will stretch. I am a size 10 and I wear a European size 41 in these. That's around an 8.5 US. Overall, these are awesome when your climbs require the most out of your shoes.
Impossible to cut feet with these shoes
I've only had these shoes for about a month, but instantly there was a huge leap in performance; on one project route I've been working you have to get a high foot and crank up on it, and my old shoes would keep slipping; with the Solutions I've never slipped on it, they stick and grab like nobody's business. The velcro closure is awesome 'cause it has the ease of velcro with the closure of laces, creating a very snug fit that goes on/off in a flash. Only downside is that since my left foot is slightly bigger it tends to feel cramped after a while, but that's remedied by taking the shoes off and putting on the 'flops. All in all I love these shoes and can't wait for weather to get nice to go outside with them.
Out standing bouldering shoe! The heel is amazing; it’s actually very thick rubber on the heel. They edge and hook very well. Very good for hard sport routes and bouldering. The only down side is that they are kinda hard to get on and off. Once they are on they are fairly comfortable for a serious bouldering show. I wear a 9.5 street shoe and I got a size 39 in these. I wear a 9 in Anasazi VCS, and a 39.5 in Muira VS. I would consider a smaller size but would need some one with a smaller foot to break them in for me, because when they are new they are almost impossible to get on. I am worried about the strap breaking on me, so I don’t strap them down real tight.
These might be the best climbing shoes on the market. The 3d heel cup suctions perfectly, and the toe box is large enough to be comfortable without sacrificing performance. The little dome feature under the toes drives force to the edge of the shoe making this shoe edge super well despite the seemingly round outer edges. The heel hooks awesomely and the P3 rand keeps everything down turned even after a whole year of hard use. I'm a V5/6 Boulderer and a 5.12 climber, and I've tried a lot of shoes, and this one is the best. Wearing Solutions is like cheating. WARNING: Size down aggressively! I wear a 8/8.5 street shoe, and I'm wearing a 38.5 Solution, and I COULD stand to size down to 38.
Great Solution to a Problem!
I'm mainly a boulder. I've been pretty loyal to the La Sportiva Katana's. The Solution's are true to fit of the Katana. I wear a 10.5 and found the 41.5 is a great fit for me. The Solution's are great so far. I'm curious of how long the toe will hold up. My Katana's seemed to only hold about three months at climbing about three times weekly. The only con, they're a hot shoe. The re-enforced upper rubber and lining gets a little toasty in the sun. Throw on the flops between climbs and the con becomes a pro! Other than that they seem to stand up to the hype, great edger, great heel and the harness strap keeps them snug. Try'em out!