Great Follow-up Shoes after the Mythos.
I bought these shoes after trying the La Sportiva Solutions for about 3 weeks in an attempt to become a more serious boulderer (sp?). I wasn't able to adapt to the Solutions during those three weeks and found myself in my old shoes (Mythos) more often than the Solutions. So, I wussed out and bought the TC Pro Sage since it fit my style of climbing more than the hyper aggressive shoes that I originally wanted. Once I wore the Sages on the walls it felt almost identical to the Mythos. It was a pleasant surprise to be able to instantly climb the V5s and 6s that I was able to do in the Mythos plus a few new things due to the extremely stiff shoe design. The shoes took absolutely no time to get used to and they are tight, but comfortable (one size smaller than my Mythos). My big toe is smashed up a little bit, but that is perfectly fine after experience with the Solutions. I thoroughly enjoy wearing these shoes and I can't wait to start crack climbing in them. These feel like these are the perfect follow up for the Mythos and that if I want to move into more aggressive shoes it would probably be a good idea to start with a pair of Evolves or Madrocks due to the price of the Solutions and the Miura VS.
IAmThatGuy at
REI on
03/03/2012
Real nice
I got these on a 20% off deal so the price was softened. I have around 20-25 pitches in and they are just awesome. They can be warm even with the vents in the mid summer. This is a face climbing shoe...not for slabs: I tried and the last just won't let me do the technique. I am a newer leader and they give you the confidance to do the placements and feel so secure. They excel when you are placing your toe on a small edge you just stick; no creep! I have looked down and just smiled at what I could stand securly on. I really made my partner look as I laughed while jamming up a crack and feeling NO TOE PAIN !!! This shoe excels in cracks. The method I use often failed and was super painful with my old shoes; with these it all hooks up and just is so plush. I did the inital break-in on these around the house to get the inital stretch done and get the tongue trained. I can see how the tongue can get folded if you aren't mindful and get it set correctly each time....so pay attention. I'll be buying a second pair at the next(discounted)chance to have a reserve pair.
Every foot is different
I rated this 5 stars because I think shoes (especially climbing) shouldn't be rated low because of fit issues. I generally love La Sportiva and based on the construction would probably recommend to a friend that they try them.
I was trying to get a shoe that would be more comfortable on long outdoor climbs. These seemed to fit the bill and were highly praised by people in many of the climbing forums. The back is much higher than most shoes and protects the ankle, I could imagine that they would be good for cracks.
I had several issues with the fit that I haven't had with Katana Lace, Muira VS. The side edge of the tongue pressed into my feet badly. From the pictures, it looked like it might have a soft booty type tongue which I find very comfortable. It was actually a more rigid synthetic tongue. Also my toes just didn't fill in the box very well.
Bottom line is that they didn't work for me, but everyone's feet are different.
BillyBobJimmyJack at
REI on
03/03/2013
great all around shoe
I have a very hard time finding climbing shoes that that fit (those pesky funky toes), my favorite pair are the sportiva mythos and these are very similar in shape, perhaps a little bit more aggressive. I purchased this shoe on my way to climb cracks in Squamish, B.C. and broke them in within the 4 days i climbed in them, they are great for crack climbing as they do protect the ankle as well as provide good support for cracks. A friend of mine, a climber of 20 years, swears by them as well and stocks on multiple pairs at a time in fear of them being discontinued.
Great Edging Shoe, But Not Sensitive.
Very good edging shoe. I haven't tried them in cracks yet but they should be great. They have no sensitivity though, it is like wearing a piece of plywood on your feet. This is OK for edging and should be great for cracks, but will not be good for smearing.
Sizing - I wear a 9 wide street shoe, and 42 fit me OK (tight in the forefoot, but I got over it). There is lots of rubbber on this shoe, and it is a stiff shoe, so don't expect it to stretch much.
GREAT Shoe, but does stretch 1/2 size
Love the shoe! As many have said, it stretches about a half size. I wear a 41.5 in Katana and Muira Velcro for my sport and bouldering (these two shoes have been the right size for the years that I've owned them). In a matter of 3 pitches, the 41.5 of the TC Pro stretched too much to be able to edge well. I decided to get the 41 and I'm in love. Get a half size smaller than normal, let it stretch and you will have your favorite new trad shoe.
ClimbSkiPaddle at
REI on
05/05/2013
Great shoe!
I climb indoor twice a week and try to get outdoor at least once a month. My previous shoes were what I believe people called boards... They were Scarpas I had since 1993. It was time to get something new. I really wanted that hard feel, not soft and squishy. These fit the bill. The Scarpas were a high top protecting the ankles in cracks just like these. I bought 2 pair so when 1 is off for a resole, I'm still climbing in what I like. Thumbs up definitely for me!
Turnpike420 at
REI on
10/10/2012
Awesome shoe
I picked these up and my first climb in them was 980 feet at Red Rock! Loved them! About 2/3 of the way up the climb, I would loosen them at the belays to allow some rest. 9 pitches of climbing and all were semi-hanging belays.
The rubber is stiff and took a little trust at first, but once you get used to them, they stick.
AzRockDawg at
REI on
07/07/2011
Great trad climbing shoes
These are my favorite climbing shoes. Irrespective of what climbing I do, I find myself reaching for these shoes. They are comfortable enough for all day climbing. At the same time, they provide great edging power and enough power for climbing overhanging routes with tiny foot holds. While I neer find crack climbing particularly comfortable, these shoes are the best I have used for this purpose.
Jac Fourie at
REI on
05/05/2012
great design
Bought these as an all day, long climb shoe and absolutely love them. They have a similar toe box and stiffness found on the Muira but they remain comfortable in just about any style of climbing ive done on them. It's the most expensive shoe in my collection by far but the performance and sensitivity you need is there!
alpineaddiction at
REI on
05/05/2012